Dyna Trouble shooting

I just put in a DS2-1, when I did the static timing I don't get the test light to lite up I double checked but still no light.
While the test light is hooked up there is a very and I mean very faint light and its on all the time but that's it.
Reading the manual it tells about the sensor and rotor having a gap range of .025 to .045 so I checked that and all I have is a .035 gauge and its very loose.
I had the older system with the little box on this bike and it worked great.

Would double-check integrity of splice-in (or connection otherwise) of red wire from Dyna-S to switched battery voltage from wiring harness.
This to assure full battery voltage being supplied to Dyna-S when ignition switch is ON.

If using Dyna green 3 ohm coils, would also assure neither primary terminal bolt head is touching the coil mounting spacer.

And also assure the Dyna-S rotor is installed correctly and not 180 degrees off.

Good Fortune!

I did not use the connector they supply I have it plugged in.
I had the problem with the screw rubbing the mount and blowing fuses a while back I fixed that but I am going to double check it.
If I have the rotor off 180 degrees will I still get the light to lite up? even if its off?

does the gap on the sensor and rotor sound to wide?

eddiem wrote:

I just put in a DS2-1, when I did the static timing I don't get the test light to lite up I double checked but still no light.
While the test light is hooked up there is a very and I mean very faint light and its on all the time but that's it.
Reading the manual it tells about the sensor and rotor having a gap range of .025 to .045 so I checked that and all I have is a .035 gauge and its very loose.
I had the older system with the little box on this bike and it worked great.

Have never needed to use static timing for Dyna-S.
Just install with backing plate in center of slots, and use timing light with engine running to fine tune the timing, by assuring F mark aligns with case mark at idle rpm.
Advancer unit should take it from there as MaKaw intended.

Good Fortune!

eddiem wrote:

I did not use the connector they supply I have it plugged in.
I had the problem with the screw rubbing the mount and blowing fuses a while back I fixed that but I am going to double check it.
If I have the rotor off 180 degrees will I still get the light to lite up? even if its off?

does the gap on the sensor and rotor sound to wide?

With engine not running, would assure magnet embedded in rotor is at 9 o'clock position when F mark for #1/4 aligns with case mark. Use 17mm fake nut to hand turn the crankshaft. This will confirm rotor isn't installed 180 degrees off.

And further assure that black wire from left Dyna-S module runs to primary wiring terminal of whichever ignition coil is firing outside spark plugs #1 and #4.

And that green wire from right Dyna-S module runs to primary wiring terminal of whichever ignition coil is firing inside spark plugs #2 and #3.

I don't yet suspect the clearance between rotor and module to be an issue.

Good Fortune!

eddiem wrote:

I did not use the connector they supply I have it plugged in....

If not already done, would assure the harness connector that Dyna-S red wire is plugged into does in fact provide full switched battery voltage.

Good Fortune!

Don't know exactly how you have the static timing test light hooked up to the left Dyna-S module, but am thinking the test light is supposed to shine while the black wire is reaching ground, and keep shining until the rotor's embedded magnet reaches 9 o'clock position to align with the left Dyna-S module which interrupts the ground.

The test light, however rigged, is to indicate when the rotor's embedded magnet aligns with the Dyna-S module, which alignment ungrounds the coil primary winding to thereby fire the coil.

Engine should crank up and run with Dyna-S backing plate installed in the center slots position. I have always gone from there straight to dynamic timing with engine running, without doing any static timing.

Good Fortune!

I check the volts at the connection its at 12v
I checked power at the sensors and power is there
I put the plate on center as you said, it cranks over and nothing no fire, nothing at all

eddiem wrote:

I check the volts at the connection its at 12v
I checked power at the sensors and power is there
I put the plate on center as you said, it cranks over and nothing no fire, nothing at all

Would assure that battery voltage is reaching coil primary terminals when ignition switch is ON.

Also remove spark plug (hold base against engine head) to see whether the plug is firing when engine is being cranked over.

With switch ON, must have battery voltage to coils. Voltage reaching coil primary terminal runs through coil primary winding and exits the other coil terminal where it then runs to ground through the Dyna-S module.

While grounded through the Dyna-S module, the coil is "charging."

When the Dyna-S rotor embedded magnet aligns with the Dyna-S module, this is supposed to unground the coil primary winding which causes the coil to fire through its secondary loop (formed by the plug wires, caps, plugs and engine head).

Perhaps during installation of the Dyna-S, the dual connector (from the wiring harness) was disturbed which provides battery voltage to wires running from the dual connector to the ignition coils. Red/yellow wire from harness to dual connector. Red/yellow wire from dual connector to each coil.

This would apply to replacing points with Dyna-S. Different wiring where replacing Kawasaki electronic ignition with Dyna-S. But regardless, battery voltage must be supplied to coil primaries when ignition switch is ON.

Good Fortune!

I have power all the way to the coils and power right at the sensors. I pulled a plug wire and no spark.

While I don't know the Dyna, it sounded like you may have the air gap to wide. Set to your .035" feeler gauge, its brass right? And try again.

it looks like there is no adjustment and nothing in the manual says anything about adjustment just what the gap should be

my other post was wrong the gap should be between .025 to .040 I had it down as .045