dyna electronic ignition

Could somebody tell me a reason why it seems my bike is frying electronic ignitions. The bike was running fine then started hitting on 2 cylinders. Chased it down to the electronic ignition. I replaced it and the bike was running fine again. I rode the bike for a little while(not long at all)and the bike started running on 2 cylinders again. The same 2 were not firing.

Are you losing anything else, like bulbs? If so, could be the system voltage is too high from a bad regulator or bad wiring. Check the battery voltage while the bike is running and revving. If it goes above 15v, you'l have to start doing some troubleshooting.

No bulbs are being blown but I do have A charging problem.

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3,2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.


Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators
A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum
Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

Goes along with what Mfolks provided...
Right out of the manual...

Pending which conductors are "Frying"... May want to check your coils....

A bad battery caused my ignition to be blown. The battery acts like a huge filter capacitor, if one of the cells is flaky you can get high voltage spikes on the +12V line. That took out most of my electrical systems.

Thanks to all. Now I dont think the 2nd ignition is dead. Something still is wrong. I checked and figured my reg. rectifier is no good. All signs to me point to maybe a bad coil but I changed out that coil with 2 other ones. What is getting me is on the coils when I checked with a test light I was getting power on both of the coils from the wires connected to the power. Now on the coil that is firing when I put the light on the wire coming from the electronic ignition the light flashes as the coil fires. On the coil that is not firing I'm getting constant power from the wire coming from the electronic ignition.

Tomorrow I will try to run more test and try to dig a little deeper.

rob220 wrote:

Thanks to all. Now I dont think the 2nd ignition is dead. Something still is wrong. I checked and figured my reg. rectifier is no good. All signs to me point to maybe a bad coil but I changed out that coil with 2 other ones. What is getting me is on the coils when I checked with a test light I was getting power on both of the coils from the wires connected to the power. Now on the coil that is firing when I put the light on the wire coming from the electronic ignition the light flashes as the coil fires. On the coil that is not firing I'm getting constant power from the wire coming from the electronic ignition.

Tomorrow I will try to run more test and try to dig a little deeper.

that means the ignition is not functioning, or the wire is bad from the ignition to the coil.

Electronic ignition serves to ground and unground the coil primary windings. This is accomplished by a magnet embedded in the rotor spinning inside between the Dyna-S pickup modules.

As loudhvx noted, something's wrong with either the Dyna-S or wiring from the Dyna-S module to whichever coil isn't firing.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

Which two cylinders aren't firing?

Would expect it to be either outside pair #1/4 or inside pair #2/3.

Good Fortune!

Perform the Dyna static test!

This is a safe test insuring the ignition module is picking up and passing triggers to the coils @ TDC...

Just in case... Dyna S installation tutorial in layman's terms.... Includes static testing with a +12Vdc automotive light!

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