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Rectifier/Regulator = 1, Dyna S = 0
- MFolks
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Any excess current is sent as heat through the cooling fins.
So if you've un-plugged the R/R, your bike may be on a total loss ignition system(that is, you have no way to recharge the battery).
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- bountyhunter
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1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- TeK9iNe
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Correct. The rectifer / reg rectifies the AC from the alternator and regulates the system voltage. It has nothing to do with the ignition, but without regulation system voltage can get near 18V which will blow a lot of stuff. I'm surprised an expensive ignition would not have OV protection, but maybe not.
Correct, the R/R unit is always a requirement. The ignighter box is the part you can chuck with the old electronic ignition.
The Dyna S, despite its complexity, is not as resiliant as some might think. For external heat it can withstand lots, but get a regulator leaking lots of current and pop! No mo dyno! :laugh:
My new Dyna S will be here Monday, via priority from Z1E.
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- Patton
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...After just idling for a couple minutes, while revving the bike, it suddenly started stumbling hard...1&4 were not firing...swapped the coils.
1&4 Were still not firing! WHAT!... ANYTHING I COULD BE MISSING HERE?....
Extended idle, especially with choke, (perhaps aggravated by a too high fuel level in 1 or 4 and/or slightly over rich pilot circuit for whatever reason in 1 or 4) may sometimes cause fuel fouling of a spark plug during initial warm-up. Same early plug fouling issue could be even further aggravated by a low battery. Either 1 or 4 non-firing plug will also take out the other plug because of the looped secondary.
And if not already done, would assure valve clearances being to specs in 1 and 4, as low compression might become an issue as engine temp increases toward normal operating temperature. [Sorry if proper clearances already reported.]
Would install brand new NGKB8ES plugs in 1 and 4, and fully charge battery. Then crank and ride immediately with minimum possible choke, or no choke, and see whether the problem persists.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- TeK9iNe
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TeK9iNe wrote:
...After just idling for a couple minutes, while revving the bike, it suddenly started stumbling hard...1&4 were not firing...swapped the coils.
1&4 Were still not firing! WHAT!... ANYTHING I COULD BE MISSING HERE?....
Extended idle, especially with choke, (perhaps aggravated by a too high fuel level in 1 or 4 and/or slightly over rich pilot circuit for whatever reason in 1 or 4) may sometimes cause fuel fouling of a spark plug during initial warm-up. Same early plug fouling issue could be even further aggravated by a low battery. Either 1 or 4 non-firing plug will also take out the other plug because of the looped secondary.
And if not already done, would assure valve clearances being to specs in 1 and 4, as low compression might become an issue as engine temp increases toward normal operating temperature. [Sorry if proper clearances already reported.]
Would install brand new NGKB8ES plugs in 1 and 4, and fully charge battery. Then crank and ride immediately with minimum possible choke, or no choke, and see whether the problem persists.
Good Fortune!
All very good info Patton.
The valve clearances are excellent along with compression.
Plugs look fine, and worked great for several miles...
Swapped them with no change.
I tried the "make sure float bowls were proper and full, then just go", but as soon as I hit the throttle and the bike revs up to go, the 1 and 4 cylinders just die, and never come back!
I just changed the pilots down 1 size as weather was getting much warmer, and I had the mixture screws near perfect...
Oh well...
:silly:
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- keith1
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Excuse my ignorance here but why are u running both the Dyna "S" system and the R/R? When I installed the Dyna on my KZ,I unplugged the R/R as it no longer has a function in a full electronic ignition.I did have to install a seperate pickup for my elec tach,but everything else works just fine.Is it the year or model of the bike that makes a difference or ? Thanks for educating the old man.bj
now thats just plain silly...
dyna s replaces the points......reg /rec is part of the charging system......just messing with you....
seriously.....seperate systems, but close in relation
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- hocbj23
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- otakar
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Might be a cheap way out.
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- Old Man Rock
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As mentioned, EI draws increased amperage so your battery should be draining fairly rapidly without the R&R... Now throw brakelight activation into the mix, never mind head light current, that draws nearly 2 amps by itself.... :blink:
Maybe you have found the Golden key to endless power...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- TeK9iNe
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I have a new Dyna S coming from Z1E Monday.
Just cant do the used thing anymore, I want a warranty! :laugh:
Cheers.
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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