Rectifier/Regulator = 1, Dyna S = 0

So, thought I'd start a new thread for this as I have a new question.

I installed my newly purchased Rect/Reg unit today, with hopes of possibly riding for a bit between some raunchy weather. Prior to the install, I had 16+ Volts when barely revving the bike up to 3500. With the new unit, it wouldnt push higher than 14.45 Volts, no matter how high I revved the bike.

1 for Rect/Reg Unit.

After just idling for a couple minutes, while revving the bike, it suddenly started stumbling hard, just as it had before when it was badly overcharging.

Checked the header, and both 1&4 were not firing.
I thought I had blown one of my new coils, like the old ones.
Then, to eliminate things, I swapped the coils.
1&4 Were still not firing! WHAT!

0 for Dyna S
I think the 16+ Volts fried the 1-4 pickup on my Dyna S.

I restarted the bike after it sat for an hour, and it idles fine for about 2-3 minutes. After a couple gentle revs, the 1&4 cylinders just dissapear completely.

So... IS THERE ANYTHING I COULD BE MISSING HERE?
I really just want to replace the Dyna S and be done.


I checked the coils - 3 ohms primary side, 14.4K ohms on secondary. Battery voltage at both. Good grounds everywhere.

:S

I think you are right on the money with the Dyna-s. They stand behind the product just send it back and they should replace it.

I wish I could! or maybe I can...?

It was purchased used from an ebayer.
guess I should have bought new.

If I sent it to them, whatcha think they'd say?

When the spark fades did you also OHM the 2 pick-up coils? Using an O-scope you can check the wave form as well. But you may not have access to one. If you can Isolate the pick-up coil so the wiring is disconnected completely, you can use a small 12v light bulb to check for a complete circuit through the pick-up coils. They should make a voltage when crank is spinning, just how much is RPM related and there is probably a chart in the Kawasaki bible.

I didnt ohm the pickups, but is there anything else that it could be?

I measured the voltage at the dyna s on both sides, and when it dropped the voltage at each pickup.
But it idles fine for a minute or so anyways, so that test doesnt really prove anything. Soon as you start revving/using the throttle the 1-4 cylinders are gone completely.

Both coils work ok on the 2-3 side...

I cant think of anthing else...

Does it do the same if you swap the 2 Ignition coils? Make sure that the 12v power is staying to both coils, again a light hooked up here can tell you if the 12v feed is weak.

I believe he did state that in the first post. :whistle:

Motor Head wrote:

Does it do the same if you swap the 2 Ignition coils? Make sure that the 12v power is staying to both coils, again a light hooked up here can tell you if the 12v feed is weak.

Both ignition coils work on the 2-3 side, both dont fire on the 1-4 side.

The voltage at the coils is off a Y feed line that has same voltage as battery at all times.

:huh:

otakar wrote:

I believe he did state that in the first post. :whistle:

:lol:

Yea OK I missed the line in 1st post. So the slice is OK. 12v stays, as you think it is most likely in the pick up coil/ circuit. Possible to have either a bad connection or a broken wire here? All wires can be checked with taking the circuit apart-ie no connection, then looping wire to be tested with a known good test bulb and a ground/ power source. Then while light is lit wiggle your harness to find either a broken or shorted wire.
These are only suggestions..

Motor Head wrote:

When the spark fades did you also OHM the 2 pick-up coils? Using an O-scope you can check the wave form as well. But you may not have access to one. If you can Isolate the pick-up coil so the wiring is disconnected completely, you can use a small 12v light bulb to check for a complete circuit through the pick-up coils. They should make a voltage when crank is spinning, just how much is RPM related and there is probably a chart in the Kawasaki bible.

He has a Dyna S, not the Kawasaki electronic ignition. Your info is good, but only applies to the factory ignition.

On the Dyna S, everything is mounted under the timing cover and is integrated. Also, the pickups are hall effect, not pickup coils, so ohming them out is not really going to help, especially since the pickups, amps, and drivers are all in one capsule.

Excuse my ignorance here but why are u running both the Dyna "S" system and the R/R? When I installed the Dyna on my KZ,I unplugged the R/R as it no longer has a function in a full electronic ignition.I did have to install a seperate pickup for my elec tach,but everything else works just fine.Is it the year or model of the bike that makes a difference or ? Thanks for educating the old man.bj