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GREMLINS - Intermittent Cut Out and Restart
- Old Man Rock
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1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- MFolks
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I suggest replacing this connector with a good solder splice and then covering it with heat shrink tubing.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- MentalMike
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The supplied connectors for the Dyna are suspect as this type was/is still used on trailers. Nothing like sorting out why the lights are intermittent on the side of the road during rain.
I suggest replacing this connector with a good solder splice and then covering it with heat shrink tubing.
OK, will do.
Is there a way to test for fault with the DYNA at this point?
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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- Old Man Rock
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This is a pisser for electricians, electronic technicians and engineers alike... Damn thing could work through all the testing you could throw at it... You think you have it figured out, it happens again... :laugh:
You could run through the static timing procedure and see if your +12Vdc doesn't come on but I'd believe you most likely just be wasting your time...
Now if you had a digital tach, it may be simpler due to my Acewell tach conductor is soldered into coil one pickup... This is how the digital tachs work, count the pulses thus rpm.
When it buggers out on you, your tach should not show RPM...
One thing to keep in mind here.... It's a UN-common failure for both pick ups and coils in your situation to fail... Thus the +12Vdc connection is a good starting point...
Disconnecting and reconnecting all your electrical connections on the electrical panel may be a smart move as well...
Also, insure your frame/engine ground is clean and intact... Not broken, oxidized, rusted etc....
Good luck!
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Patton
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...Is there a way to test for fault with the DYNA at this point?
Don't know how to trouble shoot the Dyna-S modules themselves, other than assuring integrity of wiring connections and confirming that voltage is in fact being supplied to the modules (via the splice-in) when the ign swtch is ON. Once, sent one back to the Dyna guys, who graciously replaced it without charge , but it was completely dead (my own stupid fault).
In the case at hand, not suspecting failure of the Dyna-S itself, because don't understand why it would briefly fail intermittently.
With ign swtch OFF, could use ohmmeter to verify continuity thorough the splice while wiggling the splice.
Or with ign swtch ON, could use voltmeter to assure continuous voltage reaching Dyna-S, while wiggling the splice.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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...Also, insure your frame/engine ground is clean and intact... Not broken, oxidized, rusted etc....
Excellent suggestion.
When the bike totally dies, does the headlight and other electrics also crap out?
If so, this could result from a faulty connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine. Whereby the electrical system could lose its ground.
If not, problem is more likely within the ignition circuit or in keeping steady power to ign circuit.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Jeff.Saunders
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www.z1enterprises.com
Z1 Ent on Facebook,
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- MentalMike
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The mounting plate for the ignition switch was a little loose but the connection itself was good. At one point I had the bike running and went through wiggling and jiggling everything to see if I could find trouble, but it figures, she didn't show a hint of dying at any time.
Voltage at the coils was just under 13Vdc with the engine off. I didn't remove and splice the DYNA-S connection like was suggested. Even though the connection looked good, I'll do this tomorrow morning just to eliminate the possability of a fault. Right now, it's time for some beers on the back deck!
But I think after I splice the DYNA Connection tomorrow morning, I'll take her for a long ride and see what happens. If I get stranded, I'd rather it happen on a Sunday when I have time than on my way to work sometime next week! Hopefully whatever I did today exorcised the Gremlin :huh: but in the end there's only one way to tell.
Thanks to all for your most excellent advice.
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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- gane
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[img][/img] 1977 KZ1000A1
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- Patton
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As known and probably already tested, red/yellow needs continuous power when switch is ON.
[Click on image to enlarge view.]
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- JR
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Also check the ground cable from the battery to the frame. Also see if main fuse is loose or terminals corroded.
Good luck
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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- MentalMike
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Just to share with those who may have similar issues, here's the outcome of this problem.
As bountyhunter had stated was the result of his problem, so was mine.
After going through the entire wiring harness, the cut out happened again twice on the way home from work. So I took apart the ignition switch and, cleaned, applied die electric grease, and re secured the connections. This was last on my to-do list in diagnosing this problem and wouldn't you know it was just waiting for me.
Three more trips to and from work last week plus a 70 mile round trip to my sons baseball game on Saturday and no more problems. The old girl is back to being herself again.
Ye ha, so if you develop a similar problem, check the ignition switch first and save yourself a lot of time.
Thanks all!
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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