DYNA S Install Problems

That's promising.:laugh:

also remember that bolt is right hand thread so remeber the old saying righty tighty lefty lucy

Patton wrote:

Would be careful when attempting to remove the bolt that's screwed into end of the crankshaft, as these bolts have a nasty habit sometimes of breaking and leaving the threaded part tightly embedded inside the crankshaft. Often sheared off flush with end of crankshaft.

This event leads to finding out which machine shop in your town has an EDM unit to remove the broken bit.

Ok, my dumbass finally got it off.

It was really on there.

Now on to the timing............

Well thanks for all the help on this topic.

Got everything timed according to the directions and helpful hints on here.

However, cylinder #2 (header pipe) still does not heat up as #1-#3.

So I guess I am on to another category.

I'm thinking it has to be something with the carb.

The shop that normally works on it; I kinda got pissed at them for not being able to diagnos problems, idicated its probably running rich and causing the plug to fail.

Does that tube test work (rich/lean) in the same manner on the KZ1000 as on the 650 as I saw in another thread?

Thanks.

I must of ran the battery down, while running all the electrical checks in the cold. The starter just keeps winding. Guess I will recharge it.

Now the only way I can start this SOB is to use the kickstart. Thank God for that ancient device. Atleast I hope its that and not the Dyna S. I checking the timing again and its balls on.

Guess I will eat another 8 lbs of food and start again tonight or tomorrow checking the fuel levels in the carbs.

Another odd thing. The bike is easier to start on reserve rather than in the on position. But, once I get it started and switch over to on its ok.

Well with exception of that sumbeaching #2 carb/spark plug fouling up to its richy ass high society neigborhood.

If indeed #2 is running rich, do I adjust it by turning the pilot adjusting screw or bending the tabs.

Thanks

As to problem of #2 running rich, would assure acceptable compression AND correct valve clearances AND good quality spark, all before addressing carbs.

Good Luck!

Just to echo all the good advise above... to save you lots of time and money there is a successful troubleshooting sequence that has been put together here over the years that says engine first, then carbs and then fuel deliver system.

IMHO, that would be as follows:
Engine:
1- Compression check
2- Valve clearance check
3- Ignition spark check (Coil Repowering Mod if needed)
4- Timing check (with light if available)
5- Points and Condenser check/replacement

Carb:
1- General Cleaning
2- Float movement
3- Needle Valve operation
4- Fuel Service Level adjustment
5- Air/Fuel Ratio adjustment
6- Mechanical Carb sync adjustment
7- Vacuum Gauge Carb sync adjustment (preferred)
8- Idle speed adjustment

Other Favorites:
1- Petcock clean and functional check
2- Petcock filter clean or replacement
3- Petcock Vacuum Control check (diaphragm replacement?)
4- Petcock in-tank screens clean or replace
5- Inspect and or clean out fuel tank sediments/debris
6- Inline Filter add or replace
7- Fuel line(s) check or replace
8- Fuel Tank Gas Cap vent check or clean
9- Gas Cap rubber seal check or replace

I'm sure I've missed some, but if you get these things done in this order, the problem won't have much place to hide.

BTW, probably the only area missing is the Vacuum System, but IMHO none of the symptoms seem to indicate problems in that area.

Best of success.
Bill