81 KZ 550 LTD Power Issue

I just bought my first bike last night. It's a 81 KZ 550 LTD that has had some custom fabrication done to it. It started and and ran fine when I bought it from the guy. I got it home and backed it off the trailer. I turned the key and nothing happened, no lights or anything.
Fiddled with the key for a minute and finally the lights came on and it started like a champ. I got it up in the garage and was backing it around when the bike died with all the lights and power going off as well. Since then I haven't been able to get the power back on.
The connections look fine but I'm thinking something might have wiggled loose. Any ideas where to start? I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to bikes.

I apologize if there is another thread like this out there. I'm about to leave for a couple hours and wanted to see if I could get some responses before I came home.

Thanks in advance.

Did you check your fuses ?

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:
www.waytekwire.com
www.rallylights.com
www.delcity.net
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I got this from an earlier posting from Patton and added to it:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!

Here is the most basic method I know:

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare ware wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors,in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

Sounds like maybe something loose in the headlight area. When you turn the handle bars it quits. All the wires go into the headlight and can come loose when you turn the bars

Could also be corrosion in the key switch. Flip it back & forth several times. Better yet, disassmble, clean, and replace.