mystery problem

Shoot where to begin.

I have been having some starting problems as of late . The bike would have to turn over 5-10 revolutions before it would start and yes I resorted to using starting fluid spray:huh:

So after a while I started having battery problems because it had to turn over so much. I would charge it ant it would test ok and last for a while(few days) I put new plugs in and it turned over with less effort...then I noticed as of late it was popping more than usual out of the carbs almost like a spit or misfire.

I was driving it to work yesterday and as I was buzzing along the highway it was not running smooth almost labouring and almost as if I was running out of gas and then voila blahhhhhh the engine stops I coast to the side of the highway and it turns over but no go and usually when the bike is hot it starts with little effort.

So mr kz meets mr tow truck for the 1st time:(

I get it home and charge the battery which is most likely close to being toast, so i get my clymer out and start checking for shorts or diconnected wires (found none) checked the coils they tested ok checked the pickups they tested ok disconnected the ignitor plug cleaned reconnected by this time the battery was ready to go so in it went I tested the spark with the plug grounded and it sparked it didn't snaps as my clymer said but it did spark. So i started it after about five turns and it sounded pretty good i let it run for about ten minutes and it started to idle low and quit. I never took it for a ride.

I was working around the three fuses and had the panel opened and I touched a fuse and it was friggin hot. It was the white wire with the blue stripe I am pretty sure and when i took the fuse out the bike stopped, the other fuses were not hot but this one melted the plastic i am sure.

sorry for the length but what would make a fuse/wire so hot, a short or too much of a drain.

I want to try to solve this because the door rate at the bike shops are crazy and since i have two months of riding left i am sure it would be there 2-3 weeks for sure.

Dont have a clue, Do know that your fuse must be the wrong size(amp rateing) A fuse should BLOW not just stay hot enough to start melting plastic.

my guess is its a bad battery...don't know why but thats what i think ...i think it's a bad cell.....and am gonna bet a new battery

I'd pull the fuses one at a time and clean the clips with some Brasso and a cotton swab.Corrosion can cause overheating and melted insulation.

These older glass tubed fuses are the 1" long AGX type available at some auto parts stores and motorcycle shops.

The more common AGC type is 1 1/4" long and may not fit the fuse clips.

Are you using a the original rectifier and regulator? That might be the problem. Also look to see if the auto advance assembly is moving freely. I hope this is some help to you.

If not already done, would also assure valve clearances are within specs.

Good Luck!

Check the voltage to your coils with a fully charged battery. Roy

Had a similar experience in a car one many moons ago... Was running, then started exhaust popping, back firing, lack to no power then died leaving us stranded in Paso Robles Ca....

Hitch hiked the way back to So cal...

Turned out it was the condenser (capacitor) in a points distributor ignition system.

If it applies (non EI), when was the last time your points and condenser where swapped out and adjusted?

NOTE: I realize this may be a stupid question but I'm not sure which bike we're speaking of.... Non mentioned in your profile...

OMR

Thanks for the suggestions so far. The fuse holder is clean and the bike has pick up coils not points condensor etc. I do have a ballast resistor that could be a culprit??

are you sure this is not a fuel/ carb related issue?

check the fuel filter, and maybe even look at the strainer in the tank.

just a thought

At this point it could be almost anything. The fuel filter I can see and fuel seems to be flowing and my petcock is a vacuum type and I don't think it has a strainer but I tried it in the pri and reserve setting and it still acted the same.

I will take another look to be sure try the tank off the bike to make sure fuel flows free. Thanks for the help:laugh:

I just had to replace the battery in my KZ750. It also would take 5 to 10 turns to start and checking the leads, the negative lead was always hotter than the pos. The battery (freshly charged)would measure 12.4 volts with no load, approx. 11 volts with the ignition on, and would drop to 8 volts when cranking engine over. I could see weak spark from coil for cyl. 1 and 4 and no spark from coil for 2-3. I went and got a new battery, cleaned the battery leads (shiny now) and that cured the starting problem. Now it starts within one turn, and runs way smoother on the road. I think the issue was the battery didn't have the amperage capacity--worn out. This worked for me, hopefully it might help you.