Timing Help Needed

Patton wrote:

2nd -- Set Timing -- Each points set has two mounting screws and pry slots which can be used with strobe light (after slightly loosening the two mounting screws) to align the respective F marks with the timing mark. But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel far enough to allow correct adjustment, then loosen the three mounting plate screws and move the round mounting plate.

I've been having trouble getting my timing right as well. This part of what you wrote sounds like you adjust the timing with the light while the engine is running. v.s. adjusting with the engine off with an ohm meter, and then checking with the light to see if you got it right.

should i be adjusting with the engine running? it seems unlikely, but i can't get it right. . .

I believe what Patton was stating was to check the timing while the bike is running, then if it isn't spot on, stop the bike, adjust slightly, and repeat until the timing with the timing light is correct.

yeah, that's what i thought. but i also figured that seems like it would be an easy way to get it right if you could sit there with the strobe light and adjust until it was exactly right. i just couldn't figure how you would do it with points 1&4 and then 2&3 while it was running.

I still can't get 1&4 to fire. (1980 KZ650 E1) Originally it was 2&3 that weren't firing when 1&4 WERE. I fixed 2&3 due to a bad connection in the wiring harness. Now they're firing great and 1&4 stopped.

Here's what i got:
- new plugs, points & condensers
- new 4 ohm coils & caps (Z1)
- battery holds charge just above 12v
- switched spark plugs around between 2&3 and 1&4, same problem with 1&4. not firing.
- all cyl are getting gas. the plugs are wet with gas when i take them out.
- the plugs do have spark. it seems weak on 1&4.

I've been assuming that the timing is off since i put on the new points.

halp.

First, the contacts are cleaned and gapped with engine not running.

If desired, may set timing with static method, engine not running, to get in the ball park.

It's not necessary to shut off the engine between timing adjustments while using the strobe type timing light.

May leave engine running until getting perfect dynamic timing on 1/4 (see below). Then shut off engine to re-attach timing light for 2/3 adjusting (see below).

May adjust timing with strobe light while engine idles (dynamic timing method). Good to have a floor fan blowing on cylinders to avoid overheating during the timing adjustment process with engine running.

Just slightly loosen the timing screws on left-hand set of points. While engine idles, use the notches to adjust left-hand points until timing light shows F mark for 1/4 aligned with the timing mark on the case. When perfectly aligned, tighten the two screws.

Repeat above procedure for the right-hand set of points, that is to say -- Just slightly loosen the timing screws on right-hand set of points. While engine idles, use the notches to adjust right-hand points until timing light shows F mark for 2/3 aligned with the timing mark on the case. When perfectly aligned, tighten the two screws.

Good Luck!

The objective in life for the left-hand set of points is to repeatedly ground and unground the primary winding in whichever ignition coil is supposedly firing the two outside sparkplugs #1/4.

The objective in life for the right-hand set of points is to repeatedly ground and unground primary winding in whichever ignition coil is supposedly firing the two inside sparkplugs #2/3.

The coil "charges up" while its primary winding is grounded through the closed points. When the points open, the coil "fires" through the sparkplug wires.

To properly function, the coil must receive sufficient voltage at its primary terminal. This is the voltage that charges the coil as it passes through the primary winding to ground via closed points. Typically a red/yellow wire furnishes battery positive voltage to both coil primariy terminals. A black wire connects one coil's primary wiring to the left-hand points. This would be whichever coil fires outside plugs. A green wire connects the other coil's primary wiring to the right-hand points. This would be whichever coil fires inside plugs.

It's important for the red/yellow wire to feed full battery positive voltage to the coil when the ignition switch is ON. May use a voltmeter to measure voltage on coil primary terminal being supplied by the red/yellow wire. If coil is receiving less than battery voltage, it's function will be less than optimal, with reduced high intensity voltage through the sparkplug wires. and therefore a poorer spark.

Old wiring and connectors may impede battery voltage as it travels from the battery to the coils. That's why some folks adopt the WG coil mod, which simply provides a more direct route from the battery positive terminal to the coil primary terminal, and which by-passes most of the bike's old original wiring and connectors.

Good Luck!

Let's say the coils are receiving full battery voltage, and the timing is perfect, and the signal wires (black and green) are connected just right, and the points are functioning perfectly.

Under these optimal circumstances, the coil attemps to fire the sparkplugs through the plug wires.

If the sparkplugs still fail to fire, or have poor spark quality, there's usually an issue somewhere between the coil and plug tip. Possible issues include: poor connection between coil and plug wire; bad plug wire (cracked, worn, or leaking); poor connection between plug wire and plug cap; defective plug cap; poor connection between plug cap and top of plug; defective sparkplug.

Good Luck!

Patton.
You're unstoppable.

Thanks.