Timing Help Needed

DoubleDub wrote:

Thanks, I guess I need some more light so I can see where the cam is at its tallest. Also sounds like I need to lubricate the advancer some.

Thanks for the help!

Just to add my two cents worth ('cause I set the points on my kawi just this morning)

I used the static timing method to get it close (so the bike will run) and then use a timing light to adjust it properly and you can watch the advance mechanism operate(once you've had it off, cleaned it up and re-installed it)

Setting the points gap is done before the timing and I use a dwell meter for it. My Clymer says it supposed to be more accurate. Its certainly easier for me. I've tried to feeler gauge method, but couldn't quite get the 'feel' of it!

Of course you mileage may vary...
let us know how it turns out.

Old Man Rock wrote:

Maybe there's a difference in the procedure compared to Kawi procedure/explanation...This is right out of the Kawi Shop Manual for the 1976 KZ 900....

Note 2nd paragraph addresses "The Z1..."

KZ900 FSM covers 1973 Z1 through 1976 KZ900. The advancer pictured in the timing section on page 15 is the original Z1 advancer with 5 degrees BTDC, being a relatively narrow space between the T mark and F mark. This advancer was used on Z1 until January 1974 when modified from 5 degrees to 20 degrees BTDC, with a wider space between the T mark and F mark. However, the modified advancer isn't clearly pictured in the KZ900 FSM.

The 20 degree BTDC version Z1 advancer introduced January 1974 continued at least through the 1979 KZ1000 (and likely also later years). It is pictured in the KZ1000 FSM (1977~1979) on page 13.

Here's a pic of the original 1973 Z1 advancer with 5 degrees BTDC (as pictured in the KZ900 FSM).

Good Luck!

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"Note 2nd paragraph addresses "The Z1..."... Yup, same write up in both manuals (1972 Z1 & 76 KZ900).... And yes, I do have both...

Via Z1 Ent....

In my 1976 KZ900 I have the bottom advancer....

"It is pictured in the KZ1000 FSM (1977~1979) on page 13. "

I also have the KZ1100 shop manual which depicts a totally different advancer....

Patton, you have a jpeg screeny of page 13 or the extracted PDF page for this later version of adnacer procedure... Like a copy for myself....

Thanks,

OMR

Old Man Rock wrote:

"It is pictured in the KZ1000 FSM (1977~1979) on page 13. "

I also have the KZ1100 shop manual which depicts a totally different advancer....

Patton, you have a jpeg screeny of page 13 or the extracted PDF page for this later version of adnacer procedure... Like a copy for myself....

Thanks,

OMR

Am hoping to avoid confusion for DoubleDub when he observes the timing marks in his 76 KZ900-A4, as he should see the 20 degrees BTDC version. And if comparing it to the KZ900 FSM picture, might be tempted to say WTF. :lol:

I only have the hard copy FSM for 1977~1979 KZ1000 (no DVD), and will attemp to scan for posting. The procedural steps are identical, being first clean and gap, then static followed by dynamic, plus some tips like pulling business card through contacts, etc.

All provided, of course, that this won't infringe on vastly more essential photochopping time.

Good Luck!

DoubleDub wrote:

Anyways, I've set the gap to 0.012in

It sounds like you got some great advise so far, so I will chime in with my .02 cents.
While the manual says to set your gap at 0.012 to 0.016 I usually set mine to 0.014 which is midway. When the cam wears the heel on the points with the gap at 0.012 you will be out of spec in no time at all and you will be redoing it all sooner than need be. I sometimes set them at 0.016 just for that reason.

"that this won't infringe on vastly more essential photo chopping time."... Oh-oh, OMR just turtle headed (scared).... :blink: :laugh: :laugh:

Thanks!

Page 12 from KZ1000 FSM

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Page 13 from KZ1000 FSM

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Page 14 from KZ1000 FSM

Happy to oblige!

Good Luck!

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Sweet thanks Patton!

OMR