Need to install a kick-stand switch

The 82 GPZ1100's and I'd imagine the ELR's did have a side stand switch.

Mine flashes a light on the instrument panel as a warning. It would not be hard to wire in a relay and horn using any of the circuits shown.

Patton wrote:

Uncertain whether fabbing up something similar to this might work on KZ style sidestand.

I believe this is from some Honda model.

Good Luck!

I forgot about that. That is another option. The rubber piece hits the pavement before the metal and tries to kick the stand back up before the metal hits. Anyone ever had that method work? I've never owned one.

Sandy wrote:

Where does a guy get those parts?(relay and diode):

The diode easily at RadioShack. I can look up the Radio Shack part number if you want.
The relay is at most automotive parts stores. The number is a Bosch relay part number, but other brands may have the same number.

Sandy wrote:

I think my biggest hurdle will be the KS switch itself,and getting one mounted and operable...and making it look like it belongs.
Any ideas there?

That's definitely going to be the tough part. I thought one of the KZ750 twins had the switch. I remember troubleshooting one like 15 years ago.

I've seen a couple people actually lose it on left turns for the kickstand. It's never pretty.

Brain is out at the cleaners.

Oh...is THAT what that rubber is for?:huh:
I just assumed it was part of a sealed switch or something.It didn't make much sense to me,but now that you mention it,it looks like it WOULD be affective hey.

I have a lot of ideas here,thanks gang...just have to get going on a switch.
I KNOW for a fact that it is stuck in my mind now though(to remember),but you know...this wasn't the first time I've taken off with the KS down. :blush:

Thanks again to all of you guys...big help!

Now if Sandy can just remember to have all the switches in the proper setting so he can start the damn thing.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Again, just have your wife carry a big ass stick and have her bap you in the head after a few beers... Trust me, you'll remember that kick stand after a few beatings....

Let us know how it turns out...

Just one more....
This is Kid 3.2
He will warn you of a deployed kickstand in no uncertain terms. Easily stuffed into a tank bag or bungied to a luggage rack. Runs on Mickey D power.

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: CLASSIC!

Instead of relay logic which BTW would work just fine...

Run the pull switch conductor output lead to the kill switch terminal, works the same way where you cant start the bike...

I actually like the rubber "thingy" :laugh: idea, low maintenance and no need for switch mounting brackets....

Pardon my electric ignorance Lou, but if I read your diagram right does this mean I just need to wire up the switch/diode part and use it to cut the ground wire on the relay I already have hooked up for the wg coil mod?

DrWhizBang wrote:

Pardon my electric ignorance Lou, but if I read your diagram right does this mean I just need to wire up the switch/diode part and use it to cut the ground wire on the relay I already have hooked up for the wg coil mod?

That is correct.
You only need the diode if you are using the neutral light. If you don't have the neutral light (but still have the neutral switch), you can replace the diode with a wire.

The diode prevents the kickstand switch from lighting the neutral light. That would give a false neutral indication if the stand was down and the bike was in gear.

The main problem with kickstand switches are the switches themselves. Flakey switches will turn the ignition on and off and make the bike feel like it's running out of gas or has a carb problem. Make sure to use something very reliable. KZ brakelight switches do not make the cut by a long shot. You need an industrial switch with environment protection. They have to be rated for oil, dirt, water etc. being that close to the road and engine.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationIf you want to go all out...




Mount it to the frame, and extend the roller so the kickstand hits it.

This is probably overkill, but would look cool.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere's a good one. You need a long actuator because the kickstand will bounce on bumps and the long actuator will prevent de-activating the switch on bounces. You could mount this one under the bike to hide it. All you'd see is the little actuator rod.