HELP!

Since the KZ900/1000 are very close to the same design in many ways but please confirm just the same...

Here's the testing of the Dyno, Rectifier and Regulator in the KAWI SHOP MANUAL for a KZ 900...

Pretty simple to follow once you think about it....

Dyno:
Via electromagnetic field/current generations of a rotating magnetic rotor, we generate Vac and currents...

Rectifier:
All these devices do is convert AC voltage and currents to a DC voltage and current, nothing more...

Regulator:
All these devices do is regulate the DC voltage at a set point/range of design regardless of what the input does on the high side... Meaning, if the input Vdc ramps to 25Vdc, the output will remain @ 13-15Vdc...

NOTE: The output will not generate 12Vdc if the input is lower than this...

One thing I didn't see in your writing....
All accessories (lights, lamps, horn etc...) are turned OFF... You may want to disconnect these to see if you have a partial short somewhere where they are consuming current....

Disconnect GREEN regulator plug...
Start and ramp motor to 4000rpm...
@ Battery, measure @ record 15-20Vdc...

If lower, than only two things that can cause...
1) Dyno failure.
2) Rectifier failure.

With GREEN plug connected back in....
Should measure due to regulation 15-16Vdc...

What was your current (AMP) measurements?

If your stator is getting that hot in such a short time, chances are you have a partially shorted winding thus over heating and low voltages and current outputs.

Maybe this will help, maybe not....

OMR

Before buying a stator, take the cover off and make sure it's not just two wires shorted. You may be able to fix it. I've fixed a few stators, and it's not too hard if you can get to the damaged wires.

An update and some questions. Now with pictures!


I've taken the cover off to check the stator out. What I found are some chunks/chips of what seems to be hard plastic or perhaps dried glue. Here is a pic of what I found. The bigger piece was inside the cover itself and the smaller piece (red arrow) was embedded into one of the windings.

This is the damage to the stator. The red arrow shows a broken winding and right underneath that you can see the small hole the chip was embedded in.

I believe the source of these "plastic parts" are the magnets on the rotor. The photo shows where chunks of material (plastic not metal) is missing on the rotor. So my question is, is the rotor toast also? Can I just remove any more loose "plastic" and use the rotor as is? Also in the photo of the stator, all those little white dots appear to be ground up plastic, I'm just sick thinking about that going through the engine.

And two last questions, The bolts that hold the stator in and the two screws that hold the wire retainer, are they put in with loctite at the factory or are they just torqued to within an inch of their life?

Second question, how do you attache more than one photo to a post? Anyone? Buehler? Buehler? Buehler? :silly:

The classic cooked stator picture. All you can do is order another stator. Choices:

www.rmstator.com
www.electrosport.com
www.customrewind.com
www.regulatorrectifier.com
www.rickssportselectrics.com


Except for having the adhesive fail(sometimes) the rotors are long lived. Avoid hitting the magnets as this will weaken them.

Vter Bob wrote:

I believe the source of these "plastic parts" are the magnets on the rotor. The photo shows where chunks of material (plastic not metal) is missing on the rotor. So my question is, is the rotor toast also? Can I just remove any more loose "plastic" and use the rotor as is? Also in the photo of the stator, all those little white dots appear to be ground up plastic, I'm just sick thinking about that going through the engine.

Also in the photo of the stator, all those little white dots appear to be ground up plastic, I'm just sick thinking about that going through the engine.

There's no worry about anything getting into the crankcase from underneath the alternator cover.

The alternator functions separately from the engine's internal lubrication system, except for a designed minimal oil drip through the crankcase seal into the alternator without returning to the the crankcase. Such oil only goes one way (from crankcase into alternator) and does not return to the crankcase.

Consider this -- the engine will perform perfectly well with a charged battery, and without any charging system components at all, until the battery runs down. The purpose in life of the charging system (alternator, rectifier and regulator) is to maintain the battery. The rest of the engine and electrical system, ignition and chassis, couldn't care less about the charging system, whether it's functioning properly, or whether it even exists, so long as the battery is supplying sufficient current.

Good Luck!