trying to get a project running - need some help

wow. i appreciate you looking for me, and I appreciate all the advice I have recieved in this thread. I have another used ic ignitor coming my way. I will plug her up when it arrives and post back - if I am in the same boat I will definately be in need of ideas and moral support

I would check the sidestand and kill switches for good continuity in the run positions.

Espeially the sidestand interlock thing.

then checked the continuity on several switches. its in neutral, the side stand is up (on center stand), the run/kill switch is in run, the clutch switch is pulled in. all verified by the continuity between wires and visually.

went back and saw that. . .so I guess you been there, done that. . .

I'll go away now.

I find it kinda odd that it won't let you start the bike with the kickstand down.

on my 6R if you are in neutral and the kickstand is down you can start, but if the kick stand is down and your in gear you cannot.

and by all means don't go away - I be needin some help lol

Have you checked for continuity on the wires between the components? A broken wire somewhere will do this also. I would check for continuity on the ground wires between the coils and igniter connector and then make sure pulses are coming out of the pickup while cranking.

You could also try manually touching a ground to the ground side of each coil and watching for a spark on one of the corresponding spark plugs.If you get a spark at the plug doing that, then you have a break in the ground side of the harness and your igniter is good.

txturbo wrote:

Have you checked for continuity on the wires between the components? A broken wire somewhere will do this also. I would check for continuity on the ground wires between the coils and igniter connector and then make sure pulses are coming out of the pickup while cranking.

ok I want to try some of these items but let me give you some more info. I had to redo the wiring harness so I checked continuity between every spade / pin on the harness and to its corresponding plug before putting it on the bike.

I cannot say for sure that I have checked for continuity between the plug that plugs into the ignitor and the connector spade that goes to the coil. Its a green and black wire that runs from the ic ignitor plug to the spades - and I can check that tonight to makes sure.

I have put a meter between the wires on the pickup coil and turned the motor over to check resistance but the meter response is either not fast enough or I am not getting anything. Can this be tested by hand cranking the motor with a ratchet? Is that what I should be testing - putting a meter between the two "magnet" wires on the pickup coil and measuring resistance - they ohm at 450 or so off the bike - what should they read as the rotor passes by the pickup?

txturbo wrote:

You could also try manually touching a ground to the ground side of each coil and watching for a spark on one of the corresponding spark plugs.If you get a spark at the plug doing that, then you have a break in the ground side of the harness and your igniter is good.

I will try this again - I have tried it once and got nothing but the kickstand was "down" - ie switch was backwards - and I have not tried it since. I don't quite see how this will work though. I mean if I manually ground the coil, how is it testing the ignitor. Doesn't the ic ignitor after seeing the pickup coil - ground the ignition coil, causing it to discharge a spark.

if you just ground the coil wouldn't that take the ic ignitor out of the picture?

sharkynrk wrote:

txturbo wrote:

...Doesn't the ic ignitor after seeing the pickup coil - ground the ignition coil, causing it to discharge a spark....

It is the ungrounding of the ignition coil that causes the spark.

While grounded, the bat+ voltage into one primary terminal is going through the primary winding and out the other primary terminal to ground (creating a magnetic field inside the ignition coil).

When the ignition coil primary winding ground is interrupted, the magnetic field collaspes, which causes high voltage throughout the secondary windings loop which includes the spark plug wires.

Good Luck!

The KZ with side stand lockout should let you start the bike with the side stand down as long as you are in neutral.

^^ good to know about the side stand - I didn't see anything that confirms this in the manual when I was looking. its in neutral and has been the whole time. I didn't have a chance to look at the bike last night as I was in the garage and a bee was bombing me and when I swung to shoo it I ripped my light fixture out the wall and shattered the bulbs everywhere. WTF.

anyways, I will try and get at it again after I get it fixed.