kz550 spontaneous light issue

Hey all. I've got an 82 kz550c that's having some problems with the lights I can't figure out. Since I got the bike out of storage for the summer, it has randomly had the tail running light, front/rear turn running lights, and gauge lights not come on. The first few times it did it, would only be a few seconds and if it didn't come back on by itself, I could just restart the bike and all is well. Last week, they just stopped working altogether no matter what I do. Also, the high beam headlight started going out at random, but I think that's just a bulb going out.

I'm kind of lost for troubleshooting this one.

Thanks in advance, guys.

I'd advise removing the headlight and check the connections. There is a three prong connector that plugs into the bulb. For the tail light, again remove the lens, checking the bulbs, sockets and ground wires.

The turn signals will need the lens removed to check for the condition of the bulbs,grounds, and the sockets.

You may have to remove the seat to access the wiring going to the rear turn signals and brake and running light circuits.

The color code for most of if not all Kawasaki's is:RED wire, this is the running light circuit and will be on anytime the engine is running,BLUE(sometimes with a RED stripe)the brake light circuit, should come on when the brake is applied either with the front or rear brake system. And BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

Having a multimeter either digital or analog will help in trouble shooting. Some guys use a self powered test light for continuity checking.

These bikes develop corrosion in the handlebar switches, and in the many and various electrical connections, so trouble shooting can take a while trying to find intermittent operations.

One of the members here created a troubleshooting guide for just this problem:

The Dreaded Intermittent Electrical Problem!

Here is the most basic method I know:

1) Charge your battery if you can.
2) Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red form the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.
3) Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1) A 12 V light bulb,
3.2) A 12 V test light,
3.3) A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4) A 12 V horn... you get the idea.
4) With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.
5) With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.
6) Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).
7) Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.
Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.
9) Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for fling springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).
10) Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare ware wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.
11) If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily.

Anybody know if this problem ever got solved? I am having exactly the same problem and I'm not looking forward to digging into the wires

As I recommended in the earlier post,only by checking the many and various electrical connetions can you see if corrosion or loose wireing is causing this problem.

Do the connections one at a time to avoid mixing what went where.

I suggest going to either a Radio Shack in the U.S. or any good electronic supply store and buy a can of "De-oxit".

It's a very good contact cleaner/preservative I use a lot on electical connectors. Their website is www.deoxit.com

"tail running light, front/rear turn running lights, and gauge lights not come on. "...

Sorry only have a 1980 wiring diagram but should be close I would think....

The only thing that is truly common between all the above mentioned is your ground! Check there first... continuity/deox/new connectors.

The brown wire coming out of the ignition switch powers all of those things. It may be ignition switch is going bad. The ignition is powered from the yellow wire, so the bike will still run when the lights go out. One thing you can check, when the lights go out, measure the voltage on the brown/white wire at the fuses, and also measure the voltage on the blue/white wire on the fuses. If it's zero on both, then it's most likely the ignition switch. It could also be one of the two lower amp fuses or holders. That would cause the tail/gauge/turns to go out without killing the headlight.

You need to fix this if it is the ignition switch. If the brown wire does not get power, the regulator cannot regulate. Your next symptom would be light bulbs burning out.


You can get them from various suppliers. Try Z1 enterprises first.

Old Man Rock wrote:

"tail running light, front/rear turn running lights, and gauge lights not come on. "...

Sorry only have a 1980 wiring diagram but should be close I would think....

The only thing that is truly common between all the above mentioned is your ground! Check there first... continuity/deox/new connectors.

By the way, that Clymer diagram has a major error in the wiring near the ignition switch.

After a little photochop, here is what it should look like.

.

Well no freakin wonder Loudh....

Was wondering where you had the +12Vdc being common..... hahahahahahahaha.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Again, this was out of 1980 and this obviously is not accurate nor is it setup for running lights so most likely different, who knows...

Anyone have an OEM 1982 Kaw diagram they can post?


OMR

Old Man Rock wrote:

...Anyone have an OEM 1982 Kaw diagram they can post?

What about the 1982 KZ550 wiring diagrams found in Filebase under KZ Information?

Good Luck!

I also thought ignition switch, and I would suggest that you check the fuse box as well for loose connections and fuse tabs. I had similar problems on a KZ750. I went over to a blade type fuse box and they all went away.

loudhvx wrote:

The brown wire coming out of the ignition switch powers all of those things. It may be ignition switch is going bad.

They do go bad with age. Mine did.