What's the difference between igniters?

Does anyone know the differences between KZ igniters? I see different part numbers for igniters on the 650 models, yet I have adapted one from a 750-4 to my bike that works just fine.

I would guess a twin igniter won't work on a four? And I know some igniters may have different length wiring and plug ends that could make it a different part number; but as far as what happens inside the igniter, the electrical part...what's the difference?

Thanks

The only difference is on the later models the timing advance was electronic rather than mechanical.

There is also a possibility that the '79 (KZ1000 only?) igniters can't handle quite as much current as the '80 and later igniters. Those early ones look slightly different too.

If you look at the identity numbers on your igniter box , they should read 21119-1069. This stock igniter box delivers 40 degrees full advance @ 3,600 rpm. I am running a igniter box # 21119-1165 from a 1986/87 1000R Ninja in my street bike for the past 5 years. This box plugs right into the stock terminals and has 35 degrees full advance @ 3,500 rpm and a rpm limiter at 10,700 rpm. The slight decrease in advance makes the bike more linear through out the rpm range and allows for the same performance as the stock igniter. The stock valve train will easily run to 11,000 rpm and this limiter (10,700)
There must be differences in the advance on various models. These are for a GPZ750 I found on a site on drag racing one

About when did the igniters start to control the advance? I was mainly interested with the mechanical advance ignition systems that use igniters, and what igniters could be swapped among the different bikes..

Is it possible or desirable to convert an older mechanical advance system to an electroninc advance system? I can see the benefits mtkawboy speaks of on newer bikes...

also the early Kz/GPz igniters were 2.2 ohm and the later ons were 3.0 ohm, the same as the old points ignitions. make sure that the igniter matches the resistance of the coils.

otakar wrote:

also the early Kz/GPz igniters were 2.2 ohm and the later ons were 3.0 ohm, the same as the old points ignitions. make sure that the igniter matches the resistance of the coils.

How much later? I haven't come across any 3.0 ohm coils.

I think the 83 GPZ750 had electronic-advance. Maybe the 82, but I'm not sure. I don't know if the 1000 had it sooner or not.

I prefer the mechanical advance because it's way easier to get parts for and is easier to troubleshoot.

Oh and Kent, you're right, the twins won't work on a four because the fours require two circuits. The twins only have one. I suppose you could use two twin igniters.

Pretty much all of the ones that look like this are the same. Like you said, the wires will be of different lengths leading to different part numbers, but inside they're the same.

It was either in 89 or 90 that Kaw. went back to 3Ohms. All the air cooled Zephyrs and air cooled ZR series are 3 ohms past those years. But you are right, anything that looks like that is for 2.2 Ohm coils. The later models had the integral plugs, without pigtails.

I dont think the 82 has a mechanical advancer, the stock one is 40 degrees in a 3500. The one thats supposed to work better is an 86-87 1000 Ninja which is 35 degrres in at 3500, Cope Racing says the 750s like 34 - 37 degrees total. Sounds like its all electronically done because its a plug in deal. But....Im no expert

The ability to dial in an advance curve is the reason I'm toying with the idea of making an E-advance unit for the ealier KZ's, but it's a long way off.

I haven't graphed it yet, but does anybody know what the curve looks like? Is it just a linear change from off idle to 3500 RPM? (The spec says all in by 3500 on the 550 motor.) Does it even matter that much? Doubtful, because if acceleration or speed matters, most likely you're not going to be tooling around below 3500 RPM, or even 5000 for that matter.

I cant answer that about the curve but Id think the quicker it came in without detonation the more responsive it would be. Might be able to degree it out and watch it with a timing light. Even just a tdc mark and a 40 degree mark would give you a good idea what it was doing with a light