starter clutch and the "inside" of the stator

ok the inside partof thestator that has the magnets in itan spins, well it spun on the end of crank and i need a new one. the problem is it is on my 77 i have a 76 and a 79 as parts bikes will either work?

Your "rotor" has spun on the shaft as a result of the bolt holding it on got loose or was never installed correctly.

Some engines had left hand thread bolts so be careful removing another rotor from a parts bike.

I do not see any reason not to switch parts. I'd get some Loctite 242(light blue color)from the auto parts store for the new rotor and you should not need to get into this area again.

MFolks wrote:

Your "rotor" has spun on the shaft as a result of the bolt holding it on got loose or was never installed correctly.

Some engines had left hand thread bolts so be careful removing another rotor from a parts bike.

I do not see any reason not to switch parts. I'd get some Loctite 242(light blue color)from the auto parts store for the new rotor and you should not need to get into this area again.

i guess i should say on the 76, the rotor (anyone know the real name?)has a keyway and the 77 doesn't and the 79 is a total different animal all together.
so is the taper the same? can i use the one with the keyway on a non keyed crank? help:S

School Teacher wrote:

ok the inside partof thestator that has the magnets in itan spins, well it spun on the end of crank and i need a new one. the problem is it is on my 77 i have a 76 and a 79 as parts bikes will either work?

my typing was worse than normal on the above post,tiredof working on it is my only excuse

I wouldn't think the 79 would work as it is an entirely different animal. Not sure about swapping the keyway vs non-keyway as they are essentially the same only one has the keyway. I would guess you could. The thread on those will be normal lefty-loosey / righty tighty.

Go over to the Kawasaki site and pull up the parts diagram and cross reference the part numbers to see if they are the same. Look at the pictures too to see if they look the same....chris3

ive actually seen the parts in question now the 76 looks like it is the same -the key way and a groove for a washer.

anyone have a 77-78 stator rotor thingy they would be willing to sell?

According to Kawasaki.com, the following models all use the same rotor.

KZ1000-A1 (KZ1000) (1977)
KZ1000-A2 (KZ1000) (1978)
KZ1000-A2A (KZ1000) (1978)
KZ1000-B1 (KZ1000 LTD) (1977)
KZ1000-B2 (KZ1000 LTD) (1978)
KZ1000-C1 (Police 1000) (1978)
KZ1000-C1A (Police 1000) (1978)
KZ900-A4 (1976)
KZ900-A5 (1977)
KZ900-B1 (LTD) (1976)

thanks i will tear into one of the 76's and see what i have. i must have gotten into a 75 motor and didn't know it thanks

You can check the motor number on zedder.com - I think even a Z1 rotor thingy (I think that is the technical term used) would work. Keep in mind that if you are having starter clutch issues, that the gear under the stator is shimmed. This is because they require a certain clearance from the engine cases to work right. You should measure this clearance if you are having starter clutch problems or if you change the rotor thingy. Roy-B-Boy-B put me onto this... there are three thickness of shims in the Kaw parts catalog and if you have a bunch of engines, there will be different shims used to gain this clearance.

wiredgeorge wrote:

You can check the motor number on zedder.com - I think even a Z1 rotor thingy (I think that is the technical term used) would work. Keep in mind that if you are having starter clutch issues, that the gear under the stator is shimmed. This is because they require a certain clearance from the engine cases to work right. You should measure this clearance if you are having starter clutch problems or if you change the rotor thingy. Roy-B-Boy-B put me onto this... there are three thickness of shims in the Kaw parts catalog and if you have a bunch of engines, there will be different shims used to gain this clearance.

i just did my starter clutch and i bought all 3 sizes of damper just so i would have what i needed just in case .they come in 6.3, 7.3 and 8.3 look for the little stars embossed in the rubber part ..
1 star is a 6.3, 2star is a7.3, 3 stars is 8.3...
expensive little buggers.....

keith1 wrote:

wiredgeorge wrote:

You can check the motor number on zedder.com - I think even a Z1 rotor thingy (I think that is the technical term used) would work. Keep in mind that if you are having starter clutch issues, that the gear under the stator is shimmed. This is because they require a certain clearance from the engine cases to work right. You should measure this clearance if you are having starter clutch problems or if you change the rotor thingy. Roy-B-Boy-B put me onto this... there are three thickness of shims in the Kaw parts catalog and if you have a bunch of engines, there will be different shims used to gain this clearance.

i just did my starter clutch and i bought all 3 sizes of damper just so i would have what i needed just in case .they come in 6.3, 7.3 and 8.3 look for the little stars embossed in the rubber part ..
1 star is a 6.3, 2star is a7.3, 3 stars is 8.3...
expensive little buggers.....

i don't know what your talking about please explain.
thanks

ps i changed out the rotor and every thing seemed fine till the next day tried to start it and the starter just spun- so i pulled the cover and BLAM! im back to the drawing board ! don't wann mess up stator 3,

jb weld? superglue? airplane epoxy? weld the dang thing on ! buy a new one from kawsaki $770 help! frustrated and wanna ride on the few days worth riding that are left...