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No spark !!! help please
- PhildoBaggins
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Thanks alot I can take some pics to better show you guys whats going on.
1975 Kawasaki Z1B Cafe (Project)
1979 Yamaha Xs400 Cafe Daytona
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- bountyhunter
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A coil is just a transformer: the primary winding has +12V applied to the top and the bottom lead is the one "broken" by the points or semiconductor switch device. When the switch is closed, current flows in the primary from the 12V feed line to ground. When the switch opens the neg side of the primary winding, a big voltage is created and the secondary steps it up even more to over 20kV.
If you have 12V on the coil primary and no spark:
1) The "switch" is not breaking the flow
2) the coil is bad
That solid-state magneto plate that replaced the points would be my #1 suspect. If it was mine, I'd shop ebay and get the stock points back on it to get it running and screw around with aftermarket ignition parts later.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- Patton
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... recently purchased a 75' Z1 ... not getting spark... new green dyna coils and new looking wires... new looking dyna magneto...replaced the battery and all the lights work and turn signals work headlights included. The eletrical start was put on the side cover with a button also there is toggle switch underneath that appears to be wired to the button but i havent been able to figure out its purpose. I was able to check the coils and figured out they are getting close to 12 volts to the terminals. So why am i not getting spark? Anyone have a clue what to check now?
Hello, PhildoBaggins, and WELCOME to the site. :)We're glad you're here!
Perhaps toggle replaces the standard key switch and button spins the starter. Where toggle-on provides voltage to coils and toggle-off stops voltage to coils.
Usually three wires emerge from the Dyna unit under the points cover. A black wire from left Dyna module to left coil. A green wire to right Dyna module to right coil. And a red wire which taps into battery voltage to power the Dyna unit.
The Dyna unit triggers the left coil to fire both outside plugs and triggers the right coil to fire both inside plugs. The trigger works by breaking the coil's primary connection to ground whereby the current then travels through the plug wires and arcs across the plug tip to ground.
Would first assure good connection at red wire tap providing battery voltage to Dyna.
Would test using new NGKB8ES plugs.
Would assure continuity in green wire between right coil and Dyna and continuity in black wire between left coil and Dyna.
Good Luck!
Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/01/22 17:43
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- PhildoBaggins
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Thanks for your help guys you are all a god send.
phil
1975 Kawasaki Z1B Cafe (Project)
1979 Yamaha Xs400 Cafe Daytona
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- Patton
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Would by chance the toggle switch be bad? If so how can i test for that? Also If im reading it correctly Im testing the on the connecting wire between the two coils? And the other two as well? Also to make things more a headahce all the wires are red they must of had a sell on red wiring because thats the only color. Feel my pain everyone This bike is in really good shape and all the components looks new. So thats what makes this even harder to deal with. Thanks for your help guys you are all a god send. phil
Having battery voltage reach a coil is like the result of switching a standard key ignition to the "on" position. Since battery voltage is already present at both coils, I don't suspect the toggle switch to be preventing spark at the plugs.
Any connecting wire between the two coils should be only the wire providing battery voltage to the coils. There should be no other wiring connections between the two coils. The two coils are independent of each other, with the only common wiring being that each coil receives battery voltage. The left-side coil fires the two outside plugs. And the right-side coil fires the two inside plugs. Each coil goes merrily about the business of firing its own two plugs and without giving a flip about how the other coil and plugs might be doing.
Consider the left coil. Battery voltage is supplied to the left-side coil via a wire to one of its two terminals (it doesn't matter which terminal). The other left-side coil terminal connects via a wire to the left-side Dyna module under the points cover (usually a black wire emerging from the Dyna and running all the way to the left coil terminal). Objective is to have battery voltage supplied to one left-side coil terminal and a good electrical connection between the other left-side coil terminal and left-side Dyna module.
Consider the right coil. Battery voltage is supplied to the coil via a wire to one of its two terminals (it doesn't matter which terminal). The other right-side coil terminal connects via a wire to the right-side Dyna module under the points cover (usually a green wire emerging from the Dyna and running all the way to the right coil terminal). Objective is to have battery voltage to one right-side coil terminal and a good electrical connection between the other right-side coil terminal and right-side Dyna module.
The bike's original wiring harness had a single wire (under the fuel tank) supplying battery voltage when the ignition was switched on. The wire had a dual connector at the end which fed one separate wire to the left-side coil and another separate wire to the right-side coil, thereby supplying battery voltage to both coils. But your bike might not have a dual connector. Your bike might be wired with a single wire supplying battery voltage to one coil terminal and another wire from that same coil terminal to a terminal on the other coil, which arrangement would also supply battery voltage to both coils. Except for possibly the battery voltage supply to the coils, there should be no other wiring connection between the coils.
Consider powering the Dyna unit. Usually a red wire emerges from the Dyna (from under the points cover) and taps into some wire on the bike which will provide battery voltage to the Dyna unit when battery voltage is also reaching the coils. Many folks choose to power the Dyna by tapping into the wire which is also providing battery voltage to the coils. The objective is to provide battery voltage to the Dyna which the Dyna needs in order to function. Failure of this wiring tap is common, and without power to the Dyna, the Dyna won't function.
If not already obtained, perhaps there's a wiring diagram nearby.
Good Luck!
Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/01/22 17:32
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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wiring diagram
then click Z1A+B US to download wiring diagram
Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/01/22 17:40
Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/01/22 17:41
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- PhildoBaggins
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1975 Kawasaki Z1B Cafe (Project)
1979 Yamaha Xs400 Cafe Daytona
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- Patton
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No spark to 2/3 could indicate bad trigger wire connection between right-side coil and right-side Dyna module (black wire). Especially if getting spark on 1/4 plugs.
No spark to any plug could indicate bad power connection (tap-in from bike wire with battery voltage) to Dyna unit.
With all wires being red color, may require frequent ohmmeter testing (check continuity) to determine which wires go where.
Have stressed the red/black/green color wires "emerging" from Dyna unit because believing these wires would not have been changed.
All red wires -- okay, keeps life interesting. :lol:
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Kawickrice
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- After Monday & Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF
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73 Kawasaki Z1
07 HD CVO Ultra Classic
82 Suzuki GS 1100
74 Yamaha RD 350 (My two stroke toy)
77 Kawasaki KZ 650B-1 (My putt around bike)
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75 Suzuki GT550
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'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
Barrak, Nancy and Harry says: Welcome to the United Soviet States of America, Comrades
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- wiredgeorge
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Next step will be for you to post a pic of the mess. I can't quite follow the description. Do you have a keyed ignition switch? Identify what type ignition you have. Go to Dynaonline.com and look at their ignitions. Was any of the original wiring harness used or are there all new wires (hopefully in one color only)? Once you have done this stuff, I can tell you how to fix your problem.
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- bountyhunter
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That's just plain cruel...... get a set of Sharpies in four colors and use the black, green and blue to tag the wires along their length to make it easier to trace them.Also to make things more a headahce all the wires are red they must of had a sell on red wiring because thats the only color. Feel my pain everyone
phil
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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