TOPIC:

My 750's starter clutch went south a few months ago and I've had no problems at all kick starting my beasty, but I want to get the electric starter working again.

I've been looking in my manual and it doesn't look too involved on the 750 B3. I've read other posts on how you have to go in from underneath the bike and I'm just making sure I'm reading my manual right. It looks like a big project on other bikes.

As far as the manual shows on my bike its just behind the dynamo rotor on the left side of the bike. Is this all I need to do to get to it on the 750. The only thing I'll have to get is something to hold the flywheel while removing the mounting nut. Thanks to Biquetoast I have the cross reference for all the other Kaw's that used the same clutch and there are quite a few.

Let me know if I'm looking at this way to easy for those of you who have done it before.

Thanks for the assist.

yep, that's how it's done.

IIRC the rear axle works nicely as a rotor removal tool, just thread it in as tight as you can get it then smack the end of the axle with a hammer. It should pop right off.

The removal/repair of the starter clutch on the 4 cylinder KZ750s (as well as the KZ650 and KZ550) is a major undertaking, requiring either complete engine removal and disassembly, or a very tedious and difficult procedure entering through the bottom of the engine. The problem is that most of these 4 cylinder KZs do not have kick starters, so the starter clutch repair cannot be avoided, unless you enjoy push-starting your bike.

I have heard that the procedure for starter clutch repair for the 2 cylinder models is much easier.
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Thank you gents. Now to find the parts. Kawasaki used the same clutch from for the twins until 1984. Thanks for the help.

Oh yeah, there is a mounting bolt that holds the rotor on, not a nut, and it threads into the end of the crank. The rear axle threads into the rotor and pushes against the crank. The wallop with the hammer is to break the taper fit of the rotor on the crank loose.

If you are lucky the sheet metal cover on the starter clutch has not slipped and covered the three hex head bolts that hold the clutch to the rotor.

Sixgun wrote:

Thank you gents. Now to find the parts. Kawasaki used the same clutch from for the twins until 1984. Thanks for the help.

Remember, the parts might not be the only problem. It could be that the surface has worn unevenly as well. There's a very nice chap offering a lathe service on the lonesometwin.co.uk forum, if that turns (pun very much intended) out to be your problem.

On the other hand, if it *is* just the rollers or springs or whatever, and you *do* manage to find a source...or rather an *affordable* source... of the parts, make sure to let us know! I have 4 bikes that need this work...

steell wrote:

...If you are lucky the sheet metal cover on the starter clutch has not slipped and covered the three hex head bolts that hold the clutch to the rotor.

That reminds me...
Steve (a.k.a. Lonesome), at the aforementioned LonesomeTwin.co.uk forum, just had his three hex head bolts come loose and wreak hell inside of his engine. If you get a chance, go over there and check out the damage. MAKE SURE that you tighten those suckers when you're done, and for god's sake man use a threadlocker... red... or stronger if they make it...

Biquetoast wrote:

steell wrote:

...If you are lucky the sheet metal cover on the starter clutch has not slipped and covered the three hex head bolts that hold the clutch to the rotor.

That reminds me...
Steve (a.k.a. Lonesome), at the aforementioned LonesomeTwin.co.uk forum, just had his three hex head bolts come loose and wreak hell inside of his engine. If you get a chance, go over there and check out the damage. MAKE SURE that you tighten those suckers when you're done, and for god's sake man use a threadlocker... red... or stronger if they make it...

He's not alone, I have a 76 750B1 motor that had the same thing happen, wiped out the stator, starter chain, starter clutch gear, and rotor. No damage to the case so it wasn't a big deal for me (I have lots of spares).

I'll watch for that. Got my red locktite ready for those hex bolts. I called Rice Paddy (the local bike bone yard) and they have several bikes with that particular clutch on it.They want $80 for it. Is that steep or about right? I think it will depend if they give me the entire clutch assembly.

I'll let you know how it goes

Here's Rice Paddy's number if you need it.
1-877-460-1404

They've been a good source of odds and ends parts for me. He said he had at least 20 bikes at their yard that used that clutch.

Thanks

Post edited by: Sixgun, at: 2007/01/04 14:30

Post edited by: Sixgun, at: 2007/01/04 15:36

Don't bother fixing it. It was Kawasaki's stupid fault for using a 400cc clutch on a (well at least mine seemed that way) relatively high compression 750 twin. The twins eat starter clutches. Take all of the junk out (the gear, the rollers, pushers, and springs), and get used to kicking it.

An update on parts.

BikeBandit.com had the rollers and springs for a pretty good price.

Rollers are $6.10
Springs $2.65

This would beat the $80 it would cost to buy one at the bike graveyard. It looks like if I rebuilt it with OEM parts from BikeBandit it would run around $130. Not too bad for brand new.

Sixgun wrote:

...BikeBandit.com had the rollers and springs for a pretty good price....

Make sure they actually *have* them. I've ordered stuff that went through fine until they went to actually *get* it, then they told me it was no longer available.

On the other hand, they are one of the best last resorts for parts...

But like I said, it may be your surface, and not the roller...

Keep us posted!