Boot position and install

  • lovethemkzs
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Boot position and install

25 Apr 2026 13:55
#923326
The boots look like they're angled I see they have marks I don't know if it's top and bottom and then they have a flat side on one side if anybody can tell me the correct position on how to install these because I just steam them the soften them and they seem angled if there's an easy way to install I really appreciate some help

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  • H1Vindicator
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Re: Boot position and install

25 Apr 2026 15:56 - 25 Apr 2026 15:58
#923328
airbox ducts? Spectre 1100? for hard ducts. get new. if available. but possibly $$$.

www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/14073...a7433c7c9676d332f973
Last edit: 25 Apr 2026 15:58 by H1Vindicator.

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  • Wookie58
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Re: Boot position and install

25 Apr 2026 16:19
#923331
The boots look like they're angled I see they have marks I don't know if it's top and bottom and then they have a flat side on one side if anybody can tell me the correct position on how to install these because I just steam them the soften them and they seem angled if there's an easy way to install I really appreciate some help
They angle inwards towards the centre of the bike. There should be a cut out that engages a peg on the airbox

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  • lovethemkzs
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Re: Boot position and install

25 Apr 2026 16:49
#923334
Did you see the price of them $48 each I'll go with the alcohol and wintergreen oil to soften them up I saw them but I also saw four of them for about 50 bucks from a Japanese website but then I was subject to tariffs and customs

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Re: Boot position and install

25 Apr 2026 16:50
#923335
And I think you once again wookie yes Scott matches on the rubbers but I didn't know there was nachos on the airbox I didn't see any I'm going to have to feel for him and check next time I go by the bike thank you I'll keep you updated
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Re: Boot position and install

27 Apr 2026 06:29
#923378
I've heard of that wintergreen thingy but suspicious?? Once rubber degrades it hardens and shrinks. This means they shorten and length needed from airbox to carb intake is compromised. They also shrink around the airbox opening of course and become hard as a brick.  I just so happen to have 3 of them, fresh NOS. Just in case.   

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Re: Boot position and install

27 Apr 2026 06:36
#923379
Well I got the wintergreen oil coming today and I got the alcohol already so I'm going to try and soak it I've been hearing a lot of positive things about it because winter oil won't break down rubber and it won't make it swell so I have one that's in good shape soft I'll soak the other three if they get ruined I'll contact you I see what you want for the other three but I'll let you know thank you

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  • Injected
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Re: Boot position and install

27 Apr 2026 07:48 - 27 Apr 2026 07:52
#923381
Any type of oil will help rubber parts last longer. Oil is a key component in rubber composition, its mixed in prior to molding. They don't use "Wintergreen" oil in rubber mixing plants! That would stink up the joint terribly.

I use to work at a rubber mixing plant as we had our Engineering/R&D Molding facilities attached. We designed/built engine and transmission mounts for the Big Three Automotive. Rubber mixing for transfer molding looks like how you would mix up a industrial size bread batch. Injection molded rubber like the ducts use has a slightly altered mix from that of engine mounts and has a more elevated oil content. Any rubber that comes in contact with violates (gasoline) will by that very nature harden faster.

For the ducts or any rubber part I just spray them with WD40 and let soak in. I find any other thick oil just attracts dirt.
1978 KZ650B2 w 1197cc Z1 engine
1977 KZ650B1 w 750cc Spectre engine
1979 KZ650C3 w 831cc Hot Rod engine
1978 KZ650C2 w 762cc DFI project
1977 KZ650C1 stock restoration project
1978 KZ650B2 modified project
1978 KZ650B2 Injected Drag 831cc
1980 Z1 Custom Frame Drag 1327cc
1981 Z50R Honda tow bike
Last edit: 27 Apr 2026 07:52 by Injected. Reason: more info
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Re: Boot position and install

27 Apr 2026 08:12 - 27 Apr 2026 08:39
#923382
lovethemkzs post=923326 userid=79689 if there's an easy way to install I really appreciate some help
I have air boxes on the majority of my bikes. The easy way for me to install the ducts is to have both the air box and carbs tightened in the correct position. You have to have small enough hands to put your hand into the lid opening to insert the duct from inside the air box.

I go to the outsides first (#1 or #4) and squeeze the duct thru the air box hole and push until the rubber groove locks onto the opening being careful to orientate onto the notches/pegs. With new soft ducts you can squeeze the rubber onto the opening by running your fingers inside the duct all around the opening lip. Once the groove is locked onto the air box then you need to push the opened end onto the mouth of the carb. When the outside ducts are on then you can move onto installing the #2 and #3 ducts with the same procedure. It may be necessary to adjust the air box bracket mounting points to increase/reduce the gap between the duct end and the carb mouth.

If your hands are not small enough to do this then that is where a child or teen could help you out with some guidance.

 

 
1978 KZ650B2 w 1197cc Z1 engine
1977 KZ650B1 w 750cc Spectre engine
1979 KZ650C3 w 831cc Hot Rod engine
1978 KZ650C2 w 762cc DFI project
1977 KZ650C1 stock restoration project
1978 KZ650B2 modified project
1978 KZ650B2 Injected Drag 831cc
1980 Z1 Custom Frame Drag 1327cc
1981 Z50R Honda tow bike
Last edit: 27 Apr 2026 08:39 by Injected. Reason: added pic

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  • KeylAmi!
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Re: Boot position and install

27 Apr 2026 09:05
#923383
only sort of sarcasm...
Sometimes I wonder if it would be easier to install the engine onto the airbox mounted carbs, than to keep messing with the airbox <-> carb boots.
Current project:
'84 KZ700
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  • Wookie58
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Re: Boot position and install

27 Apr 2026 09:09
#923384
lovethemkzs post=923326 userid=79689 if there's an easy way to install I really appreciate some help
I have air boxes on the majority of my bikes. The easy way for me to install the ducts is to have both the air box and carbs tightened in the correct position. You have to have small enough hands to put your hand into the lid opening to insert the duct from inside the air box.

I go to the outsides first (#1 or #4) and squeeze the duct thru the air box hole and push until the rubber groove locks onto the opening being careful to orientate onto the notches/pegs. With new soft ducts you can squeeze the rubber onto the opening by running your fingers inside the duct all around the opening lip. Once the groove is locked onto the air box then you need to push the opened end onto the mouth of the carb. When the outside ducts are on then you can move onto installing the #2 and #3 ducts with the same procedure. It may be necessary to adjust the air box bracket mounting points to increase/reduce the gap between the duct end and the carb mouth.

If your hands are not small enough to do this then that is where a child or teen could help you out with some guidance.


 
I believe this is an 1100 Spectre, if so the airbox is likely to be the same as mine. If that is the case there is so much "baffling" internally (which I removed) that I don't think the boots would pass through !!!!

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Re: Boot position and install

27 Apr 2026 19:45 - 27 Apr 2026 19:45
#923400
I was unaware that the bigger bike air boxes had internal baffling. The only air boxes I have worked with were either 650 or 750-4's and on those there is no internal baffling.

Yes baffling walls would make it difficult to do from the inside so the only way would be from the outside. That would suck as my method is so damn easy and quick.

The picture shown is a 750 CV air box installed on a KZ650 frame.
1978 KZ650B2 w 1197cc Z1 engine
1977 KZ650B1 w 750cc Spectre engine
1979 KZ650C3 w 831cc Hot Rod engine
1978 KZ650C2 w 762cc DFI project
1977 KZ650C1 stock restoration project
1978 KZ650B2 modified project
1978 KZ650B2 Injected Drag 831cc
1980 Z1 Custom Frame Drag 1327cc
1981 Z50R Honda tow bike
Last edit: 27 Apr 2026 19:45 by Injected. Reason: sp
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