KZ750E with CV34 idling issues

Hello community of wisdom,
I again come to ask for your advice. I documented my recent engine rebuild in this thread:
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/621542-kz...ervice-advice-needed

The bike runs great and I just had to fiddle around with the carbs to get it idle properly. 
facts:
- engine: original
- carbs: original CV34 with original needles & jets, has been completely cleaned 1-2 years ago
- airbox: original with new filter
- Scheibel 4in1 exhaust

The issue:
Prior the maintenance the bike would usually start promptly, mostly without using the choke. Idle when warm was reliably at around 1200-1300 rpm. She didn’t like it lower than that. Pilot screws where one the range of only being 0.5 turn to 1.5 turns out.
After the maintenance (including new piston rings, adjusted valve clearance and lapped valves) I turned all of them to service manual default (2 turns out). This seemed to be too rich as it wouldn’t idle properly so I started turning them slowly in bit, listening to the engine where it would increase the rpm and then stop. 
Thinking I got it done I had several test rides now and find the following behavior:
When cold the bike starts promptly and idles at around 1k rpm without choke and It runs smooth on the road. Coming to a stop when warm though or pulling the clutch it might slowly fall to around 2k rpm and then slowly decrease until it gets way below 1k, stuttering and eventually dying. When getting hot though (stop and go in the city) she would die quicker. 
my assumption was mixture still too rich so I took her to another test ride with a carb adjuster tool, getting her hot, set on the main stand somewhere on a parking lot idling so I could adjust the pilot screws again listening to the engine. Result: all screws are all the way in. Yet it wouldn’t idle properly or if it does after adjusting the idle screw it would fall back way too slow to idle when pulling and releasing the throttle. 
I‘m a little lost how to tackle this. Plugs are all evenly dark brown on all cylinders, tending to black. Carbs are synced. Compression is fine.
My assumption now is that she is running a little too rich in general and I’m trying to compensate that with the pilot screws?

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Kevin

Have you checked the fuel level in the carbs using the clear tube method described in the factory service manual?

As TexasKZ mentioned, check the fuel level in the carbs, this will show float heights resulting in too rich or lean, the service manual gives service height recommendations for your bike.
Hope this helps.
Rich.

Well… it appears to be that simple. During the engine rebuild I took the carbs out without further efforts on them as the bike was running fine before. I did the check with a clear tube back then when I did the carbs 2 years ago and it was 4mm under bowl edge as per manual. Did it again now and it’s significantly above. Thanks for the clear guidance. Looks like I‘ll be looking at stuck floats.