Push/pull throttle

**for clarification in case I'm wrong: Im referring to the pull cable as the one that opens slides as the throttle tube is rotated and referring to the push cable as the safety in the event the return spring brakes. 

I'm having a heck of a time figuring out the push cable. The throttle tube will refuse to snap closed and sticks intermittently when it's connected. It just feels awful to twist. With only the pull cable installed I can adjust it  and it works as it should. With the push cable installed, the bike idles sporadically when twisting the throttle slightly. I got the bike with OEM handle bar controls and what I'd presume are OEM cables or OEM replacements. I did order replacement cables from a company called Niche Industries and they measure out exactly to what was on the bike. It just seems like something is always either too tight or too loose and everything I try doesn't help. Any tips when installing the return cable? Additionally,  I have seen some Honda bikes where there is no adjustment nut for the push cable? Anyone know why?  I do have a throttle housing from a Honda bike that I'd like to use but the return throttle thread is m12. Anyone have a solution or insight? I'd scrap the return cable as I have a dirtbike background and am confident in having one cable but I don't like the idea when I have 4 cylinders with 4 carburetors beneath me. All it takes is one time... thanks in advance!

Fit the push cable first and adjust it so you still have a fair amount of slack with the throttle closed. 
Fit the pull cable and adjust it so the cable just nips tight. 
If the push cable is tight the two fight each other. 
Once done the fine adjustments are done at the bar end adjusters. 

What bike?

Cable routing can have a big effect.  So, too, will order of adjustment.  The FSM will have specifics.

Aftermarket cables can be hit or miss, only sometimes as good as OEM's.

Niche generally sells good stuff.

DK about the Honda part.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

 

from the diagrams: open cable. close cable. some say control cable. the cables may be slightly different w different metal elbows or different lengths. aftermarket cables may be the wrong length. or the amount of slack could be wrong. slightly too long may be okay, but too short can be problematic. slack is the excess length of the inner cable compared to the outer cable.

An adjuster on the closing cable is redundant. If you think of the system as a single loop rather than as two separate cables, it will make sense. Keep in mind that the throttle tube rotates as the adjuster is tightened.

When installing new cables, the adjuster should be quite loose. The adjuster on the closing cable is then tightened until nearly all of the slack is removed.

If it operates smoothly with the closing cable disconnected, that is suggesting a problem with the cable itself (does it work smoothly when off the bike?) or there is a problem with the installation. 
The cable may be routed in a way that is kinking it, the barrels on the ends may not be well seated, or the inner cable may  not be in its grove  on the throttle tube.

Don't rought the cables through the bike. Hook them up with no forced bends and see if that helps.

Pages from manual

Here's an update. I went with the throttle housing from an old Honda bike I had laying around. (I like the look better and the electrical controls for the side consist of an off/on/off switch and start button which is all i want for that side. Headlights/running lights will be wired to always be on when the key is turned on). Anyways, to make up for the slack in the pull cable I laser cut 11ga. And 14ga Stainless spacers to raise the bracket that attaches to the carburetors taking up the excess slack. I believe it took 3 11ga (.118") and 2 14ga (.075") spacers to get the proper adjustment. Not ideal but hey, it works!