Carburetor holders

I changed the carburetor holdes as the originals were leaking. I ordered replacements from Zpower. I expected them to be marked 1 to 4 but instead they have two marked L and two marked R. I asked the question and they said the two L go on 1 & 2 and the two R go on 3 & 4. Can't see any other difference between any of them. 
Does it make any difference which way the vacuum guage attachments on the carburetor holders point because they old ones had two pointing up and two pointing down. Do these vacuum gauge attachments all have rubber caps on as the old ones had caps on 1 & 4 and nothing on 2 & 3.

 

The vacuum guage attachments on carb #1 and 2 should be @ 7 o´clock position.
The vacuum guage attachments on carb #3 and 4 should be @ 5 o´clock position.

Thanks for the reply. It's seems that the old ones were not correct. Would that make a difference to the carbs. Do you know if they should all be capped.

It makes no difference to the carburetors, but it does make a difference in how easy it is to hook up the carb synchronizing tool.

None of them should be left open. That will really mess with the fuel mixture and make the carbs impossible to tune.

If your bike has a vacuum operated petcock, (fuel tap) then there should be a small hose from it to one of the vacuum ports. If your bike has Kawasaki's clean air system, then one or two of the remaining ports will be connected to that. Any unused port should have a tight fitting cap.

Thanks for the reply. The bike did have a clean air system which I removed with the airbox and added pods. I added a small piece of pipe to the two carb ports and left them open. Not sure if that is correct.

I am aware the carb holder connections should all be connected during synchronisation and tuning but what i meant was once that is done should the connectors all be capped when normal riding and use. Two of the ports never had caps and two did when I got the bike so I am not sure if they should all be capped after tuning.

 

Deon wrote:

Thanks for the reply. The bike did have a clean air system which I removed with the airbox and added pods. I added a small piece of pipe to the two carb ports and left them open. Not sure if that is correct. Perhaps a picture of what you have left "open" would help (only "vents" should be open

I am aware the carb holder connections should all be connected during synchronisation and tuning but what i meant was once that is done should the connectors all be capped when normal riding and use. Two of the ports never had caps and two did when I got the bike so I am not sure if they should all be capped after tuning. They should all be capped unless you have a vacum operated petcock, in which case three would be capped and one supplies vacum to the petcock


 

What I meant was they should never be left open, no matter what you are doing. 

As Wookie58 says, when not connected to the synchronizing tool, three should be capped and one connected to the petcock.
The bowl vents, which are on the carburetors, should have a short length of hose attached that is left open to atmosphere. Most often these terminate behind and a bit below the engine.

Since you are running pods, you will need to add air corrector jets to eliminate the off-idle flat spot. Member Zed1015 makes and sells them.

Wookie58 wrote:

They should all be capped unless you have a vacum operated petcock, in which case three would be capped and one supplies vacum to the petcock

 

Normally the vacuum take off is on carb 2 and is a seperate spigot just behind the carb 2 vent. All four vacuum guage spigots should be capped during normal running.
If your going to use one of the four vac guage spigots to operate the vac tap then the second spigot by the vent on carb 2 must be capped. 
If you don't have a second vac spigot on carb two but do have a vac tap then you have no choice but to use one of the the carb sync spigots but the remaining three must be capped.

These are vm22, but same place on vm 24 & 26.

 

Thanks for the good advice. I have done the air correction jets from Zed1015 so that is at least correct. Just need to get some caps for the carb holders and then do the sync.

 

Deon wrote:

Deon post=911015 userid=65219

The circled spigots in yellow on pictures 1,2 & 4 are vacuum sync ports which must be capped in normal running.
The two circled in yellow on pic 3 (manual pic) are vents and should be left open to air as they allow air to escape from the bowls as they fill with fuel. 
The two circled yellow in pic 5  are the vents shown in the manual picture. 
The vacuum tap spigot is this black one. 

 

Thanks for all the advice. Grateley appreciated