carburetors kz 1000 1977

Hi Salvatore, I have moved your duplicate of this thread, please try and keep to one thread per topic as it becomes confusing for members replying to you

The stock carbs were Mikuni VM26's.  Your bike seems to have Keihin CV34 carbs, which were installed on many KZ750's in the early 1980's.  

I apologize, I will follow your advice. Thanks

Salvatore wrote:

I apologize, I will follow your advice. Thanks

No worries 

There are three adjustment screws because one carburetor is the reference carburetor to which the other three are adjusted. 
For example, the screw between 1 & 2 adjusts carburetor one to carburetor two. The screw between 2 and 3 adjusts one and two to number three. The screw between three and four adjusts carburetor four to the other three.

A wildly oscillating rod can be caused by a missing restrictor in that tube. It can also be caused by an intake valve that is not closing, which is one of the reasons valve adjustment must be done before synchronizing the carburetors.

[justify]Thanks, now I understand. For valve adjustment, I generally do it on small bikes at the end of the compression phase, for this bike which notch should I see on the F T advance? with crankshaft rotation x 180 degrees? Is the sequence 1-4 2-3? Do you know of a post on the forum where I can translate and see photos. Thanks, you are very kind[/justify]

See pages 2-5 through 2-9 in the factory service manual.

As long as you target the top end of the clearance range, say from .10 - .15mm, then you can simply aim the cam lobe away from the bucket and measure then.  

This is a better method, that adjusts the valves in pairs.

First, remove the ignition cover. When rotating the engine, use a 17mm wrench, and only rotate clockwise.

The cylinders are numbered left to right, 1 to 4, as you are sitting on the bike, looking down at the engine.

Rotate the engine until the # 1 Exhaust lobe is pointing forward, parallel to the gasket surface (position B ), then adjust 1E and 2E.
Rotate the engine until the # 4 Exhaust lobe is pointing forward, parallel to the gasket surface (position B ), then adjust 4E and 3E.

Rotate the engine until the # 1 Intake lobe is 90 degrees to the gasket surface (position A), then adjust 1I and 2I.
Rotate the engine until the # 4 Intake lobe is 90 degrees to the gasket surface (position A), then adjust 4I and 3I.



If you don't have the tool for removing shims, you can use this method instead...

gsarchive.bwringer.com/bikecliff/images/valve_tool_zip_tie.pdf