TOPIC:

Those VM26/26-xx fit 72-1980 Z1 carbs ALL. Also if you need the "red steel" seat washer, VM26/25 is that Mikuni part number. If working on VM29's (smoothbores), they used a different/larger float seat. It's washer is Mikuni part number B34/52-.5/.8 and 1mm thicknesses. Choke lifter plastic for late 1974-1980 VM 650/900/1000 is Mikuni VM28/450. These are original and not super white like Marcel's repop stuff at the same price. Jim, not only promising, factual. How many completed set of the VM28 SC's do You want, Ha.

asphalt900 wrote:

Those VM26/26-xx fit 72-1980 Z1 carbs ALL. Also if you need the "red steel" seat washer, VM26/25 is that Mikuni part number. If working on VM29's (smoothbores), they used a different/larger float seat. It's washer is Mikuni part number B34/52-.5/.8 and 1mm thicknesses. Choke lifter plastic for late 1974-1980 VM 650/900/1000 is Mikuni VM28/450. These are original and not super white like Marcel's repop stuff at the same price. Jim, not only promising, factual. How many completed set of the VM28 SC's do You want, Ha.

 

Thanks for the response on the VM26/26x.  That helps!

Not recognizing the white "bush'.  Looks like a solid round button.  Are they fitment for VM28SC's?

We don't have any 29 smoothbores.  Six Z1's all running 28SC's plus a few racks of same on the shelf.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

You're welcome my Friend! Just kidding about the carbs, figured You'd cornered the market on spares already, ha. I'd just grabbed some gaskets for others info, didn't really apply to the initial conversation but thought it might be helpful for others. That "bush" is just standing on end so it didn't roool away.. It's not the "early" type, just choke lifter used on multiple VM choke plungers.  

By asphalt900: From the early VM carbed 650's, YES. 

Thanks.  From the diagrams at partzilla all of the KZ650s w VM carburetors use the 16030-1001 float valve assy.  I assume the -1001 part number supersedes the original part number on some of the earlier models.   I've been looking for some original parts diagrams but haven't found anything.

Also..Jim you mentioned Viton needle option. Yes, use a Honda Float needle set from an early Sabre 83-84 750. Although Kehin, same diameter/pitch seat. Gotta mill down the filter holder where it protrudes into the casting but work fine. Also utilize the spring wire that goes over the top of needle that attaches to the float adjusting tang. 

The 786-15005 are the viton tip Mikuni brand float valves.  I've used them before and thought they were great.  They seem to be about the same price as the steel tip Mikuni valves.  A solid option.

asphalt900 wrote:

You're welcome my Friend! Just kidding about the carbs, figured You'd cornered the market on spares already, ha. I'd just grabbed some gaskets for others info, didn't really apply to the initial conversation but thought it might be helpful for others. That "bush" is just standing on end so it didn't roool away.. It's not the "early" type, just choke lifter used on multiple VM choke plungers.  
 

OK, now we see the hole in the middle.  It doesn't present well on this monitor; not enough contrast.  Thought it looked like a solid round button.  Might be these old eyeballs, too... .

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

More stuff Jim to ram-rod the point home, ha. Ed had mentioned the "alternate" method of using a Viton needle too. Here's my avenue to success doing the same using the Honda Float needle sets. Honda PT# 16011-MR6-671 or K-L 18-4616. Interesting fact all the KL little baggies have Keyster contents?? Anyway, pictures will provide the essence of application if interested. Note steel/brass floats react faster then viton tipped needles. Thats why i'd mentioned utilizing the supplied needle "spring hook" over the float tag. And..unadvisable to use the aluminum crush washer supplied. Theirs about a .5MM difference in thickness compared to the original red one. Doesn't sound like a lot does it... Believe me a slight difference in height at the post position makes a HUGE difference when setting floats. And, opening a can of worms again. Think ED thought i was nuts a while ago but i haven't used float bowl gaskets for years on any VM carb. HI ED! My crap doesn't leave brown stains down the bowl..ever.   

I like the rubber ring instead of the paper float bowl gasket idea. How about more details of this setup.

Morning Vin! I don't want to clog-up Jim's topic so i responded on the 79-80 head Topic i started.

asphalt900 wrote:

More stuff Jim to ram-rod the point home, ha. Ed had mentioned the "alternate" method of using a Viton needle too. Here's my avenue to success doing the same using the Honda Float needle sets. Honda PT# 16011-MR6-671 or K-L 18-4616. Interesting fact all the KL little baggies have Keyster contents?? Anyway, pictures will provide the essence of application if interested. Note steel/brass floats react faster then viton tipped needles. Thats why i'd mentioned utilizing the supplied needle "spring hook" over the float tag. And..unadvisable to use the aluminum crush washer supplied. Theirs about a .5MM difference in thickness compared to the original red one. Doesn't sound like a lot does it... Believe me a slight difference in height at the post position makes a HUGE difference when setting floats. And, opening a can of worms again. Think ED thought i was nuts a while ago but i haven't used float bowl gaskets for years on any VM carb. HI ED! My crap doesn't leave brown stains down the bowl..ever.   

 

Are the o'ring gaskets glued in place or are they specially formed to hold their shape?

Vinsky it's just 2mm Buna-N cord stock. Nothing preformed just freehand according to the application. Objective is to "super glue" the rubber where that slightly raised casting bump is on the carb body. This is for the VM's though. Also works on the early Keihin's too, where they used a flat rubber or paper gasket but there isn't always a raised section on a lot of those. The trick to success is having a super clean surface to work with. I always bead-blast mine and carb cleaner to get any oily crap-off.