TOPIC:

I know its been asked a million times but im trying to get my project kz1000 running well. it has bs34 mikunis, pod filters and open 4-1 exhaust. just jetted to 130 main and 40 pilot. float height set to gasket base. has dyna2000 ignition with suppressor wires, ngk b8es plugs. it stumbles really badly at about 6k rpm under load. it idles nicely and revs freely and happily in neutral.  i added 2 very slim shims, the kit provided to each needle but it still happens. i confirmed good voltage to coils and good flow from petcock. i believe it started after the jets but these ones seem to help the bike everywhere else in RPM range. looking for advise from someone whos been here before. dunno if i should be looking at raising the needle more? or did I go too big on one of the jets? stock is 122.5 main and 37.5 pilot. thanks in advance and sorry to beat the same horse

Have you tried this?

www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_proc...igh_rpm_engines.html

Also, have you located the open end of the carburetor vent hoses in a place where they will be in very still, non-turbulent, air?

Ok so, that’s the research I was talking about. I found that page helpful but it seems like it’s made for a guy with trays of jets. i only have these 2 sets of jets. I’m not cheap but I don’t wanna spend $50 on a set just to try. My gut says it needs more fuel but who knows 

I do a jet kit for running those BS34's with pods which requires all settings being put back to stock except for a main jet increase but if you want to follow your own path with the current changes you need to determine whether your issue is either a lean or rich mixture which both can give similar results.
The "choke" is actually an enrichener so if you feather the choke at the point of the stumble and it improves then you are lean and if it worsens you are rich.
You can then base further changes on the result of that test.
 

Zed, you make a kit? I tried the choke and it didn’t really help. Even just barely using it. 

chonus wrote:

Zed, you make a kit? I tried the choke and it didn’t really help. Even just barely using it. 

Yes! I make the air correctors to cure the off idle bogging caused by removing the airbox.
ALL carb settings remain stock except for a main jet increase .
Pods must be quality free flowing K&N, S&B, APE, RamAir ,or UniFilter etc.
Cheap pods cause rich running and other issues.
CV's carbs work best with the still air provided by an air box so ideally you should use dual pods to help balance out the intake pulses that cause slide flutter.

The FSM says float height should be about 1/8 inch (3mm - 1mm) BELOW the joint line with the float bowl, excluding the gasket.

H. 

ok thank you. my manual is long gone. I know im pissing up a rope if my float height is wrong. i ordered 135 mains and will see what happens. depending on those results ill change the float height. luckily these carbs come off in about 2 minutes and i dont wanna make too many changes at once. 

You can download a factory service manual from KZR. You can find it under the Articles tab.