GTR1000/ Concours Carbs removal and refitting

Hi folks, removed the Carbs for cleaning out as not used the bike since 2015. I'm struggling to refit the Carbs could anyone tell me if there connecters from the airbox push back inside for easier carb refitting?

Great tip pick up on the zrx forum. There is almost zero room on zrx's to get the carbs out without half dismantling the whole bike.
Get hold of a couple of sheets of ally or plastic about 4 inches by 20 or so, old number plates are perfect. 
Spray them with silicon grease. Sandwich the carb bank inlet and outlets with them and then slide the whole bank in. The rubbers will deflect out the way easily against the ssiliconed sheets. Once the carbs are across the bike aligned with the rubbers you can slide out one sheet and seat the carbs in the rubbers. Then slide the other out and seat the rubbers that side. 

I was astonished how well it worked and turned a 4 hour zrx battle into a 10min semi doddle. 

When the boots are so hard that you can't get the carbs in place, that's code for the boots need to be replaced.  Airbox boots are about $14/each, and money well spent.

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When the boots are so hard that you can't get the carbs in place, that's code for the boots need to be replaced.  Airbox boots are about $14/each, and money well spent.

Thanks thats not a bad idea,the airbox boots aren't that bad yet bu I noticed that I was risking damaging them and thought it best to ask for some opinions. I might have a look at ZPower but I think I'm going to remove the boots on the engine side as they seem a lot more supple,then reinstall the airbox and carbs first and try fitting the engine side one at a time. It'll be all worth it when it's done.

 

Without knowing your airbox. Is it possible to reach inside the box and dislodge the boots and pull them into the box. After carbs are mounted use some spray lube and push them back out over the carb spigots and back on the lip of the air box. 

Are your airbox boots supple enough so that they can roll back and double over ?

 

I was able to reach into the airbox with my right hand and get the boots on. It was in 17' so my memory is a little vague. I was installing a set of Shouldabeen Eng. torque cams and changing coolant tube o-rings on my 94' ZG 1000 Concours.

I was really lucky they all just fell together.....my arse I am never doing that again... there's still all the fasteners to do but I'd had enough by now... anyone wants to know how I did it, I'll be in therapy for a while but I should be able to talk about it one day 

Glad you got it back together. Try doing the carbs on an early 80's Honda V4 if you want a challenge.

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Glad you got it back together. Try doing the carbs on an early 80's Honda V4 if you want a challenge.

Nice looking bike! I think I'll give that a miss though, I feel for the poor blokes having to do that to a Z1300 pr a CBX thou. Finished all the boot clips and the water connections to the bottom of carb bank. Put the tank back on and it started as soon as the empty bowls filled up. I'll run it more tomorrow 

 

Looking like I spoke too soon, No1 cylinder not running, that's the one with the needle valve stuck in and freed. I will check for a spark tomorrow. Cylinders 23and4  are running on chock only and does when throttle is applied, which suggests overfilling to me. Is it possible I have refitted the  main jets after cleaning an failed to seat the needles?

Running only on choke and dying when opening the throttle suggests a seriously lean condition. Most likely clogged pilot circuits or leaking around the carb holders or seriously low fuel levels, or some combination of these.