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Where to buy KZ1000 float valves?
- DOHC
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Last time I did this I managed to get lucky and find a set relatively cheap. This time I'm not having as much luck.
I'm trying to figure out if there is an alternate part number that I can substitute. Here is what I have so far.
OE 16030-027: Partzilla says it's NLA from Kawasaki. JetsRUs lists it as Sudco 007-966 for $28.51 each.
The parts I found last time were Mikuni VM26/26-2.3. As far as I can tell these are the same as the OE parts. But Mikuni VM26/26-2.3 is nowhere. I can find Mikuni VM26/26-2.5 and Mikuni VM26/26-2.0 from Summit. They are better, at $16.99 each.
It looks like Suzuki used the same part on the GS1000. Suzuki 13370-18111. Partzilla lists these for $47.25.
Any chance the VM29 smooth bore needle/seat fill fit in a KZ1000 VM28? That seems to be P/N N122/032-2.5 and Summit carries that one for $13.99
Can I get away with a 2.5 (larger) or 2.0 (smaller) seat? I figure if the VM29 used a 2.5 the VM28 would probably be fine with one? What's 1mm.
Nessism, I'm looking at you... Where do you get your float valves?
'78 Z1-R in blue , '78 Z1-R in black, '78 Z1-R in pieces
My dad's '74 Z1
'00 ZRX1100
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- daveo
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1982 KZ1100-A2
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- Nessism
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Keyster brand is 2nd best. Sirius sells kits for cheap. I get the cheapest VM26 kits they sell, since the float valves and gaskets are all the same. www.siriusconinc.com/
Edit: You can also use the viton tipped version. I sometimes wonder if these would be even better at sealing.786-15005
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- Mikaw
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1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
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- DOHC
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I should have been more clear. Where do I get cheaper float valves. I started with JetsRUs and ordered a bunch of other parts, but I wasn't exited about paying $114.04 for float valves.Mikaw post=866003https://jetsrus.com/individual_parts/007-966_su.html
Nessism post=865992You can use 2.0's just fine, assuming you are not going to be racing. I typically get them from Dennis Kirk, but their price is $21.55 currently (it's gone up.)
I found another thread where you recommenced the 2.0 as a replacement for the 2.3. Why do you prefer the 2.0 over the 2.5? I'm assuming the orifice size limits how quickly fuel flows into the bowls, but I don't have a good sense for what practical difference the size would make assuming it's not starving at WOT. Does a smaller hole make it easier to maintain a consistent fuel level? The Mikuni VM tuning manual doesn't have anything at all to say about float valve sizes.
Keyster brand is 2nd best. Sirius sells kits for cheap. I get the cheapest VM26 kits they sell, since the float valves and gaskets are all the same. www.siriusconinc.com/
That's a good idea. I should have done that instead of buying individual o-rings. Also, it looks like cycleorings.com is no longer in business?
Edit: You can also use the viton tipped version. I sometimes wonder if these would be even better at sealing.786-15005
Thanks for pointing that out. I hadn't noticed that the 786-15005 seats were the same dimensions. Does that retaining clip on the needle fit over the tang on the float? It looks like these are a bit cheaper than the VM26/26 at Summit. They are listed for $14.99.
'78 Z1-R in blue , '78 Z1-R in black, '78 Z1-R in pieces
My dad's '74 Z1
'00 ZRX1100
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- Nessism
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I've used the 2.0 valves because they flow a little slower. I can't imagine anyone taking one of these bikes to the race track anymore, so draining the bowl shouldn't happen. That said, the Keyster 2.3's work fine for the most part. They have a stronger spring in the needle compared to K&L float needles, for example.
The clip keeps the needle in the seat, it doesn't loop over the float tang. I don't think it's strictly necessary, and many float valves don't use them.
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