Is this a good carb kit for a stock 440 LTD?

I ordered the 'intermediate" carb kit from Z1.  I didn't realize it was labeled intermediate until I bought it.

www.z1enterprises.com/carburetor-kit-kz4...40-A1+440+LTD%2F1980

Bike's bone stock as far as I know.  Non-running, haven't started tearing into it yet but getting everything together bc the goal is to get it worked out and running in 1 day.

Will this "intermediate" kit do well on a stock bike?

Sometimes the only thing you need to do is replace the rubber bits & gaskets. That's what I did.  The brass parts were fine and the motorcycle is stock w complete stock airbox & stock type muffler system.  I soaked the brass bits in the good Berryman's over nite.

I'm sure I'll never understand why folks replace the needles, jets, and other hard parts in their carbs when keeping a bike stock.  My 1977 KZ650-C1 has all the original metal carb parts and has zero problems after 62,000+ miles.  Ed

It takes a lot more than just replacing a few parts to properly bring the carbs up to proper running standards.  For that reason I'm NOT a big fan of "carb kits."  

You should fully break down the carbs, removing all the brass parts including the pilot screws, then soak them in carb dip for several hours in order to properly clean the internal passages.

Then reassembly using new fresh O-rings.  You don't typically need to replace jets and such, although replacing the float needles is a good idea if yours are worn.  If that's the case then the only decent replacement needles I've found are either Kester or OEM Keihin.  You can judge this by watching to see if the needle spring is strong to support the full weight of the carb float without compresing.  

short cuts are long cuts when it comes to carbs.  For example, the O-rings on the fuel tee are almost always hard and brittle so they must be replaced, and to do so the carbs need to be fully taken apart.  Do the job right the first time takes more time, but it saves time in the end and avoids problems later on.

wrote:

 

The bike's been sitting since '87.  Who knows what shape the internals are in.  If everything's good, then I'll reuse the stock bits.  If it's in shit shape, I'll use the new bits.  

wrote:

It takes a lot more than just replacing a few parts to properly bring the carbs up to proper running standards.  For that reason I'm NOT a big fan of "carb kits."  

You should fully break down the carbs, removing all the brass parts including the pilot screws, then soak them in carb dip for several hours in order to properly clean the internal passages.

Then reassembly using new fresh O-rings.  You don't typically need to replace jets and such, although replacing the float needles is a good idea if yours are worn.  If that's the case then the only decent replacement needles I've found are either Kester or OEM Keihin.  You can judge this by watching to see if the needle spring is strong to support the full weight of the carb float without compresing.  

short cuts are long cuts when it comes to carbs.  For example, the O-rings on the fuel tee are almost always hard and brittle so they must be replaced, and to do so the carbs need to be fully taken apart.  Do the job right the first time takes more time, but it saves time in the end and avoids problems later on.

I'm not aware of any way to install a carb kit WITHOUT a complete teardown of the carbs.  I feel like that's the whole point.  I mean, that's why I bought the kit.  Maybe "Carb Rebuild Kit" would've been more accurate.  I didn't realize when buying the kit that it was an 'upgrade' from standard jetting, or whatever "Intermediate" is supposed to mean compared to standard.

Bike's been sitting for almost 35 years.  Carbs definitely need to be checked out.  If it needs everything, it needs everything.  If it only needs rubber bits, then that's awesome.  Plan for the worst and be surprised when it's not.

This ain't my first rodeo.

You might be surprised how many newbies around here think a carb overhaul consists of spraying the carbs with aerosol carb cleaner, or running a couple of cans of some carb-magic through the fuel tank.

wrote:

 or running a couple of cans of some carb-magic through the fuel tank.

I'm still waiting for the snake oil (Techron) to magically solve the low speed jetting issue on my ZRX.  The bottle says it will solve all my problems.  Mostly I'm just desperate to avoid having another fight with the air box. 
Hasn't made any difference yet.  But I'm still waiting.  

wrote:

wrote:

 or running a couple of cans of some carb-magic through the fuel tank.

I'm still waiting for the snake oil (Techron) to magically solve the low speed jetting issue on my ZRX.  The bottle says it will solve all my problems.  Mostly I'm just desperate to avoid having another fight with the air box. 
Hasn't made any difference yet.  But I'm still waiting.  

Have you tried mixing Techron, Berryman, and Seafoam?  One of them is bound to do something!

wrote:

Have you tried mixing Techron, Berryman, and Seafoam?  One of them is bound to do something!

 

Don't forget marvel mystery oil! Then add some castor oil for top end lube, and some Stabil so it doesn't all go off, and I may not even need any gasoline at that point.

wrote:

wrote:

Have you tried mixing Techron, Berryman, and Seafoam?  One of them is bound to do something!


 

Don't forget marvel mystery oil! Then add some castor oil for top end lube, and some Stabil so it doesn't all go off, and I may not even need any gasoline at that point.

and top it off with some STP!

WD40 replaces all of those, plus can be used as a marinade for teriyaki chicken.

wrote:

WD40 replaces all of those, plus can be used as a marinade for teriyaki chicken.

Yum!