80 kz750h Ltd

Hey all new here can someone please advise me on my 80 h1 float height spec saw previous post about wet vs dry height not sure what that means but pissin out all overflows want to set floats before clear tube test thx!

There is no float height specification. The clear tube method is how fuel height is measured. It is explained in the factory service manual beginning on page 155,
kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf

If your carburetors are overflowing badly, it is likely that the petcock and some or all of the float valves are at fault.

If the carbs haven't been cleaned in a while double check the float needle seats and needles.
I had to replace all the needles as they were hard and misshapen. Then clean the valve seats with a Qtip and carb cleaner. (I've also read to use Brasso to polish them up)

Regardless, clear tube test is the way to go. You don't have to mount them on the bike to do it. They just need to be level (as if they were mounted).
 

Thanks for the manual Texaskz I don’t have one carbs have been rebuilt and cleaned so a little work on the tangs to raise float height then check fuel level will hopefully solve, 2nd owner here she’s only got 7100 orig mi on her n she looks great 

Thank you sir will do fingers crossed I really think it’s something simple but!

wrote:

a little work on the tangs to raise float height.

Backwards. If fuel is already coming out of the overflows the float level is to high. You will need to bend tag up, this will lower fuel level. Lots of other things need to be checked. One critical is rust/dirt in the tank. Add a gravity feed inline filter. As mentioned check float needle and seat. If they are worn match size (marked on seat) of original with OEM parts. 

Overflow tubes could be cracked.  Extremely common on the Keihin CV34's.  I've posted a tutorial on how to fix them in an older thread.  Or use google.  Lots of Honda Keihin carbs have the same problem.

A good rule of thumb is that the floats themselves (not the tang) should be parallel to the gasket surface - if the float needles have weak springs be sure to check the heights with the carburetors sideways, or just hold the floats up.

My manual does specify a float height for CV34s (and BS34s), I just don't have my manual handy right now.

New question the guy that worked on my carbs is telling me he thinks I’ve got peacock in wrong position. He’s says it should run in prim position, and on when not riding this makes no sense to me please settle this debate.

On a vacuum tap the prime position is for initial starting and then switch to the ON position for riding.

So when not in use petcock should be in what position?

 On or Res. Do not leave it on PRI. As ZED1015 said, PRI is only for filling the carbs after the bike has been sitting long enough for fuel to evaporate.

In a perfect world, no petcock would be needed as the needle and seat valves in the carbs are supposed to shut the fuel off when the fuel in the bowl is at the proper level. Since the needle valves sometimes leak a little and tiny specs of dirt can prevent seating, the petcock becomes the safety backup system to prevent the crankcase from filling with fuel when the bike is parked.

We are assuming that the petcock is hooked up to a vacuum source and that it is functioning as designed.