1980 KZ750 LTD H - correct carb fuel hose connection

Hi All,
I'm a noob to the forum and to motorcycles in general, but very mechanically inclined. I recently took the MSF course, and should get my license when the DMV isn't so screwed up. I acquired a 1980 KZ 750 LTD with the carb and gas tank off. It has sat in a garage for years, but doesn't seem too worse for wear. Two questions:
1. Can someone give me pointers to keep in mind when starting a bike that has sat for a while.
2. Can someone give me detailed instructions on where the carb hoses go. I know there should be 4 overflow tubes coming from the bottom and going into the bottom of the air box. Really need help with the other connections. Had a hard time finding it online for this specific bike.



I attached some images to hopefully make it easier.
Thanks in advance.

Hope this helps.
Credit to WiredGeorge.

First thing, I'd pull those carbs and break them down. Soak all the hard parts in carb dip and replace all the O-rings. Search the archives for info on all the various O-ring sizes. Don't waste your money on "carb kits" because they are typically full of inferior aftermarket parts. If you need float needles search out some Kester parts or spring the big dollars for OEM.

The carbs have a fuel feed that's between the #2 & #3 carb. There are float bowl nipples that should have a hose that feeds down to the side of the swingarm, away from the rear tire. The over flow tubes in the float bowl often crack so know that when you are going through the carbs. There is one vacuum line that comes off one of the carbs and operates the petcock. All the other vacuum lines on the carbs are capped off with rubber plugs.

Big Help Thanks

Thanks for the details and advice, big help. You guys on this forum rock.

I would remove the spark plugs & put a small amount of oil in the holes. about a teaspoon or so. Then remove the RH engine cover & turn the engine by hand using a 17mm wrench (do not use a 14mm wrench. that bolt is for the timing advancer & not for turning the crankshaft). Then reinstall the spark plugs. There's a good pdf available for the 750-4 chain drive models. yellow-gold cover w color wiring diagrams.

While the cover is off, I would inspect & lubricate the timing advancer >> this is normal maintenance. be sure to separate the rotor from the advancer body & fill the groove w grease. check that the springs aren't stretched or damaged or anything. after reassembly & lubrication, operate the rotor by hand. it should snap back.

Removing the engine cover. To avoid damaging the fastener heads, I use a hand impact wrench. choose the correct bit, fit it to the screw head, then whack the tool w a hammer. you could spray the fasteners w Liquid wrench & let it sit overnight. Get a new engine cover gasket beforehand. I keep several of those at hand.

Nessism wrote: There are float bowl nipples that should have a hose that feeds down to the side of the swingarm, away from the rear tire. The over flow tubes in the float bowl often crack so know that when you are going through the carbs. There is one vacuum line that comes off one of the carbs and operates the petcock. All the other vacuum lines on the carbs are capped off with rubber plugs.

Depending on your airbox, the carb drain hoses could feed back into the airbox instead of down to the swingarm.
If you have a clean air system on the top of the valve cover, then the picture from wiredgeorge shows the correct setup for the vacuum hoses, otherwise three should be capped as Nessism stated above.