1977 kz650b jetting HELP NEEDED

1977 kz650b with mikuni carbs. Im running stock exhaust, and pod filters so i know i need to rejet for the pods, but question is what size main/pilot should i run? the bike just wont idle nice under 2k.

Shouldn't need any jetting change with a stock exhaust. Have you adjusted the air screws?

pods sure look nice. but......

But what?

but getting the jetting right thru the range makes it seem hardly worth it

Mine carburates cleanly from idle to red line, no flat spots, hickups or anything weird. Starts easy, pulls hard and runs great from sea level to over 12000 feet. It even runs great in rain and windy days. People who have problems with running quility pods filters on VM carbs simply dont know how to dial them correctly and blame the filters. When done right there are no issues.

baldy110 wrote: Shouldn't need any jetting change with a stock exhaust. Have you adjusted the air screws?

no i havent, i got the bike with the pods on it and the bike just runs like shit when its cold and after its warm on idle anything under 2k and it dies. im currently battling an issue where the bike will start while leaning on the kickstand, revs up no problem, then the moment i pick the bike off the kickstand its like someone hit the kill switch. i dont lose power, but the bike shuts off and wont start. this entire bike its a basket case pretty much. i had the carbs sonic cleaned at my work, (i work at a motorcycle dealership/ service center), im waiting on new carb boots because i definitely have vacuum leaks like no tomorrow.

Pods allow freer air intake, probably more then is needed with stock pipes.
What size jets are in it now?
In my opinion your bike with a stock exhaust would run better with a stock air intake and stock jetting ,
or get a good after market exhaust system and step up the mains.
Below 2k is the pilot jet, try turning all your air screws in/clockwise a quarter turn, that will lean out your air a little.

Don't know about it dying when you stand it up , check the ground to the engine and clean ( all ) your connections with Deoxit-5

People who have problems with running quality pods filters on VM carbs simply dont know how to dial them correctly

therein lies the problem 95% of the time. and it gets worse when the bike (in the usa) was built after 1/78.

If your running the VM24 carbs stock should be 15 pilot jets and 102.5 mains, verify that is what is in them. remove all the jets and Make sure the pilot circuits in the carb bodies are clean and clear by spraying carb cleaner thru all the passageways. make sure the jets are also clean and clear. Don't assume because you used an ultrasonic cleaner that the carbs are clean, verify it. I've had to clean carbs numerous times in the ultrasonic cleaner if they were nasty. Once you've done the carbs check the valve clearances and the spark advancer, clean and lube it. Clean and gap the points then set static timing.
For your shutting off problem Disconnect the kill switch just to eliminate it. Take the tank off and verify you have roughly 12 volts at the coil wire, with the key on. While your there check ALL your connections and wires for loose and / or shorting wires. Verify the ignition switch doesn't have a problem by wiggling the key with it on.

I will do all of the following. i dont know what id do without you guys! id love to go factory airbox but alas, have yet to find an airbox i can use. next on the list is to purchase new carb boots.

you are a godsend. i adjusted the afm screws like you said and the crappy iddle is gone! cleaned the carbs and as you guest it, main jet was half clogged in carb #3 bike runs strong in the higher rpms and doesnt bog like it used too. i also got my sidecovers in yesterday and already have them sanded and primer-ed ready for the paint matched paint to go on with the 2k clear!