kz1000p - installing carbs - ugh ...

What is the exact way of installing these carbs? I know I've read it's difficult, but I've seen a video pushing in the air rubber piece into the housing completely, install carbs and then pull out - how???? Nearly impossible.
So then I put the air rubber piece on 'out' in it's final state and I simply can't get the carbs past the rubber piece without something eventually ripping.
What's the trick please before I drop kick my new carbs!
Thx.

Pull the filter out so you can reach in and push them from the inside . I also heat them with the wifes blowdryer . It helps to soften them up . Its always a bitch but if they start making you mad just take a break and go back to them . You will win in the end ....

Really helps to have new boots. LIke riturbo says, pull the filter out and you can get your hand in there to help push the boots out. I start with the inside boots (2&3) and then do 1&4. If you use a little oil you can rotate the boots once they are on the carb so they line up properly. The last thing you do is roll on the little spring clampy things.

It's a pain but gets easier every time you do it.

Oh and attach the throttle cable before you install the carbs. The last thing you want is to try to attach that cable after you went thru all the pain of installing the carbs. Ask me how I know...

I am am quite sure everyone has their own methods for installing the carbs, while using the stock air box, but I used what works for me. I have the spring clamps already in place, rolled back , away from the installed position rubber groove.. I removed the battery box bolts and take the bolt out of the rear master cylinder reservoir, then pull the battery box and air box back as far as I can, until it is tight against the frame tubing and hold it back with a bungee cord. After reading how it is actually supposed to be done in the manual, I want to try pulling the boots into the air box next time.
AND, true that on hooking up that pesky throttle cable prior to installing the carbs! It can be done with the carbs mounted to the motor, but is often very difficult to do, when it is easier to hook it up in advance. Just make sure that it is routed through the frame properly so that it has the correct routing after the carbs are in their holders.


I am guessing the difficulty of installing the carbs would be one of the main reasons people go to the pod air filters (or no filters) and just remove it. Mine was already gone when I got my bike, after inquiring at Archway >international< Motorcycle Salvage, after being quoted $150.00, I bought two on eBay for 40 bucks each. (I have 2 spares if anyone needs one) blatant plug here. lol
archwayintl.com/e-store/


After reinstalling last January.


I also noticed the fuel gauge sender had seen better days.



I found a new plug and fittings at Gateway Electronics. I replaced the blob of glue over the riveted fitting with some JB weld prior to installing the tank.

Thanks everyone for the insights and pictures. I finally got them in. I can sure see why people remove the air box altogether and go with the single carb filters instead. Now on to the next part of hooking up the rest ...

Thanks again all.

I loosen the air box and push it back as far as I can(1/2”). Harbor freight heat gun is a big help. And if you put a drop of white paint on the top of each boot helps for finding it’s happy place.

russ_alternate wrote: Thanks everyone for the insights and pictures. I finally got them in. I can sure see why people remove the air box altogether and go with the single carb filters instead. Now on to the next part of hooking up the rest ...

Thanks again all.

Except, the CV carbs need the air box restriction to function properly. (from my understanding) AND it changes the fuel / air ratio and requires re-jetting. Soo, in effect in order to eliminate a little bit of frustration in installing the carbs with the air box, you create a whole LOT of frustration trying to figure out why your bike sputters and pops, and no longer runs right.

Not really a fair trade off IMHO.

This is a spare I got off of eBay. If one is good, 3 is better. lol (I had another 81 Kz 1000 at the time that also ran like a bat out a hell)


Needs rubber boots.


I had to loosen the calipers to get this one to roll onto my trailer. Notice the rust stains underneath and no air box. Another screwed up title with screwed up lien release from Kansas.

[quote="old_kaw" post=790441............................. Except, the CV carbs need the air box restriction to function properly. (from my understanding) AND it changes the fuel / air ratio and requires re-jetting. Soo, in effect in order to eliminate a little bit of frustration in installing the carbs with the air box, you create a whole LOT of frustration trying to figure out why your bike sputters and pops, and no longer runs right.

Not really a fair trade off IMHO......
[/quote]

Exactly! Ed