TOPIC:

Howdy...

I've got an '82 kz550 ltd. Just did a ton of work to get it running again after sitting for 12 years.

The float bowls and jets are nice and clean but I did not do a complete disassembly...left all 4 carbs
together with the float bowls off and soaked them for a few days..then made sure the jets were clean.

So here's what's happening when I fire it up...

It starts and then in about 30 seconds or so the #3 carb overflow tube starts pouring gas...then the #4 starts but not quite as bad.....#3 and #4 exhaust pipes are much, much cooler than 1 and 2....no gas is getting in there it seems. What is clogged on the right side of my carb bank? Any help would be much appreciated!

Did you replace needles and seats? A faulty needle/seat combination would overfill the bowl (causing the overflow) and could potentially flood out the cylinders during operation. Carb kits are cheap and easy, and if all ya need is needles/seats, it shouldn't be to big of a job. You may also want to check your float levels. Replace the needle/seat combination, re-synch the carbs, and go from there. My 2 cents.

The needle valve on #3 is stuck open either by goo or debris. Usually a shot or two of carb cleaner will suffice. Could also be a worn needle valve.

A lot of these old rubber parts are just that, rubber which means that carb treatments and ethanol fuel will soften them substantially.

Number four's probably just more of the same.
KZCSI

Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2006/07/10 22:36

Thanks for the fast reply guys!

Is the needle valve you're talking about the 'float valve needle'...must be. If so should be easy to get at.

Thanks for the help!...I'll let you know if it works.

One word for you, "InLineFuelFilter". OK so I forgot the spaces, btu you get the idea? I have seen newly rebuilt carbs have issues like this, from a little schmegma getting trapped between the float needle and seat. I have also heard of floats being installed upside down. Lastly, you might want to set your float height. If you have the carbs off, be sure to bench-sync them.

That is all for now!

First, if a spark plug on a cylinder isn't firing, the gas being supplied to the cylinder will flow out the combustion chamber into the:

1. exhaust pipes
2. air cleaner
3. cylinder walls

The oil is fouled and you will need to change it. Dry the air filter and if it is an aftermarket type that is oiled, clean and re-oil.

The reason the cylinder is not firing is not lack of gas since gas is slobbering all over your bike. The reason the cylinder isn't firing is that the bike either has defective ignition parts, a poorly tuned ignition OR the valves are staying partially opened due to lack of valve clearance. These PROBLEMS point to the fact the bike has not been tuned.

Your Kawasaki Factory Service Manual provides tune up steps laid out in a specific order. A Clymers or Haynes manual duplicates the steps and order which essentially is:

1. compression/valves (cam chain tension as well)
2. ignition tune up
3. carburetor tune up

Note that the carburetor STUFF should be done last as failure to perform the necessary maintenance and tuning within steps 1 and 2 will only make carb tuning a major waste of time and effort.

If the bike is running and gas is oozing out everywhere, changing the float seats will not cure the problem. The problem is that the gas isn't being burned as no combustion is taking place. Since gas isn't the issue, compression (likely valves or just engine wear) or ignition is the problem. You can tune your carbs all you want but if the plugs on a number of cylinders are not firing, changing float height, sync and mixture tuning is a waste of time at this point.

Is it happening only when its running? I have the same bike and same problem but only when it is not running. I have done everything listed here, rebuild, rebuild and rebuild with new carb kit and rebuild again but still leaks leaks leaks. Let me know if you solve your problem. I am at an end.

Thanks for all the input guys! I've had a hectic work schedule this week and will finally today get back to those carbs. See what kind of goo I missed in there.

Johnny Octane....I've learned and relearned alot through my little '82 project...maybe I can help.

Where exactly is it leaking from? overflow tubes..bowls...

no problems here! I fixed it! It was a chewed up rubber piece in the pitcock causeing the leak.

ok...carbs are completely clean for the second time and installed an inline fuel filter. I suspect the carbs were clean the first time but tank crud got into the needle seat. I ran it for a few hours today and the filter is already got crap in it!....bike runs great.

Thanks!

When I get an older bike, I fill the tank with a phosphoric acid solution if the tank doesn't have loose scale and let the tank sit overnight. I then will drain and rinse the tank good with gas then blow it out with compressed air and fill it as soon as possible. Tank rust is a fact of life on older bikes and phosphoric acid will neutralize surface rust. If you have scale, look into POR15. They provide and acid etch to clean the tank and a chemical compound to coat it afterwards. Most bike shops sell Kreem which does essentially the same thing but from most reports, doesn't work as well or last as long.