Tk 22 on A4 engine

I've heard that it's possible to use the tk22 carbs on this 1983 kz550a engine. What are some thoughts on using them? I would have to buy tk22 carb manifold and modify them? I was thinking of using a pod setup with a bit of rejecting.

Thoughts?

Yes, it's possible. I use TK22's on a Kz550H motor which originally came with TK26 carbs like the A4 motor.
It works ok, but vacuum leaks on the manifolds are what to watch for. Since the intake ports are larger, there is less "flange" area for the manifolds to seal against. And yes, you have to cut the mounting holes on the manifolds into slotsbecause the bolts are set further apart. You will also want to get thicker, bigger washers to hold them better. It's important to mount them so the screws are turned very evenly or the manifolds will not sit perfectly flat. I like to snug them, with the carbs mounted, then pull the carbs carefully off, then tighten the screws in small increments. I do it with the carbs in place initially so the spacing will be correct.

It will be tempting to use old manifolds since they might be throw-aways, but I found the impressions on them from an old motor interfere with the sealing on the new motor.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. so I need to get a brand new set of tk22 manifolds correct. When you say cut then into slots, you mean a slight incision into the rubber. I take it that allow the holes to stretch a bit further?

Also just of bit of preliminaries so I can do some research. I see from searching you've guys who have used pods either use emgo or k&n. Any brands I should avoid?

I'll get into jetting at a later time but from all of the threads I read aftermarket exhaust were being used. I have a 4 into 2 exhaust systen. Don't know if it's stock how would that affect jetting

The manifolds look like solid rubber, but that is just a layer of rubber surrounding a metal flange-shaped core. The mounting holes need to be slotted all the way to the outer edge using a hacksaw. You must be very careful not to nick the other rubber areas.

I've found the Emgos (and other similar types) far more satisfying than the K&N's.

I'm curious as to why you are ditching the TK26 carbs. They would presumably give you better performance.
I ditched mine because I'm pretty heavily invested in TK22's and didn't want to start another warehouse project for the TK26's

The intake being different will have more effect on the jetting than exhaust. If you get a TK22 airbox, you might use stock jetting even if your exhaust is not stock.

The hunt for the airbox is becoming a bit tiresome and so far no luck with the current one. Since I have the option I'd like to use pods with the tk22 at least until I can get a hold of the right airbox.

Sidenote: I think I might have screwed myself. Bought these carbs from a seller who claimed that they were off of a kz550 c Ltd. However these are not tks they are mikuni.

Can anyone identify these carbs?

Mikuni VM24 is my guess.

Thanks lou, I call bs that they came off a 550.

His words "Ya it came off a kz550 i had. They would have to be cross compatible. I just ride them to test them out and part them going off what vin#s say so not sure on teikei carburetors being only ones on the kz"

Going to ask for this so called vin#... measured inside bore on engine side and got around 25mm.

I don't know my 650 carbs too well, but I think that's what they are.

All Kz550's use TK carbs. Even the Zx550 uses TK carbs. I think Zr550 might also use Tk carbs as well, but that will need confirmation. But for sure, no 550 used those carbs you have.

All you have to do is compare the center-to-center spacing. 550 carbs are closer together than the 650/900 carbs.

Yeah shame about the spacing as it is off by just a smaller amount when I tried putting them on the head . I'm going to try and get a refund. Careless careless careless mistake, I will try and find a set of tk carbs

Just wanted to make sure I am getting this since there is no room for any mistakes . I am making the slot from the screw hole to the outer edge as indicated in the picture, correct?

Yes that is where to cut, but I did not grind off the rubber. You don't want the rubber to start peeling off if you can help it.

I cut the slots a little narrower than the hole diameter to leave as much metal as possible for strength. Then I used a metal washer that was 2.5mm thick, with an OD of 15mm. 14mm might have been better to give a little more play for centering the manifold.

I used all new stainless hex head bolts. I can't recall the length, though.

I put a super thin layer of antiseize on the mating surface to allow the manifolds to move to where they need to for centering.
I also put a super thin layer on the throats so there would be no binding there either.
I then mounted the manifolds with the mounting bolts just barely snug. with the same number of turns on each screw so the manifolds seat evenly. Leave off the hose clamps.
Then I installed the carbs and wiggled everything around to let it come to rest in the most natural position possible.
I also tried to make sure the manifolds were ach approximately centered between the mounting bolts/washers.
Then I snugged the bolts down with a shorty wrench.
Then removed the carbs while preventing the manifolds from moving if at all possible.
Then I snugged the bolts down a little more. Keep in mind the original screws were cross heads meant to be installed with a screwdriver, so the torque you apply should be about as much as you think possible with a screwdriver. maybe use a 10mm nut driver to put the final torque on it.
I then put the carbs back up to the manifolds, but didn't fully install them, just to check for alignment. As you insert the carbs, make sure none of the manifolds are being pulled one way or another. That indicates a misalignment.

I used a syringe to check for vacuum leaks, but I think you can even get a vacuum leak through the valve seals so I don't know if this test is actually worth doing.

I use plugged fuel line for the vacuum caps. I find the typical auto-parts vacuum caps disintegrate quickly in this application due to fuel exposure.

Thanks Lou, the amount of information that you provided is greatly appreciated. I've made the slots similar to yours (not nearly as neat my hacksaw needs a replacement blade) . Hopefully I'll get a chance to get the other bits and pieces from a local hardware store. I will keep you guys posted on how it works out.