Carb Oring Replacement

I have been told to clean the carbs and replace the orings. But after looking at the FSM I have it doesn't really cover replacing the orings. I also have not torn down the carbs yet except to clean them. I have tried searching the internet and the forum and could not find anything that clearly explains it but if it is fairly self explanatory when I start to tear down the carb then I am sorry. I have ordered a kit from cycleorings.com. I have attached the page from the FSM showing the carb breakdown I am lookng at.

Also with a stock airbox and stock exhaust is there any advantage to increasing jet size by 1 or 2 sizes? I have heard the factory jet setting is lean due to emissions. I am asking because the only information I can seem to find is about pods and jet changes.

The bike is a 1982 KZ750 twin CSR the carb are BS34 mikuni

I applaud your desire to do the right thing and service your bike properly. I haven't gone through a set of those carbs before but I've done lots of sets of the regular model BS32 and BS34 and they are not difficult to work with.

Just break them down and remove all parts with rubber and plastic. You don't have to remove the throttle shafts though. Once you have them apart then soak the bodies and jets in carb dip to remove all varnish and sludge. Be sure to remove the pilot screws since the passages are very small and you need to allow the cleaner solution to get into the inner passages. You might want to read through the following tutorial to familiarize yourself with the cleaning process. Many of the elements are the same for your carbs.

Good luck.

zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_...Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

Thank you nessism. I have the carbs off and I will.ise that guide to start getting them apart.
Any thoughts on the rejet for stock setup?

If the stock jetting is too lean, you can easily shim the needles up just a bit and fatten up the low speed by adjusting the mixture screws. There really is little to no gain to be had with a completely stock setup. I wouldn't mess with any of this before getting the factory setup dialed in. Once that is done, you can determine if further tweaking is called for.

P.S. It is also a good idea to insure that all the little parts go back to the particular carburetor body they came from. Things like the needle jet and jet needle wear together and should be kept together. A simple way to do that is to use two small containers. Old Cool Whip containers work pretty well. Label the containers 1 and 2. Put all the little bits from carb 1 into container 1, and likewise for number 2. Clean all the bits of each carb separately and all will be well.

Thank you Texaskz.
Here is some more questions.
Does the attached picture show the pilot jet plug?

Also how do I remove the tube in the center of the carb.

The tube can be push out from the throttle piston side with a plastic stamp with the same OD with very very light taps,
Do no unnecessary force to the brass needle jet. The o-ring hold it in position.
Before you go on do a bath in carb cleaner over night to loosen all the dirt and oxidations.
This makes some thing easier without destroying this rare peaces of metal.

The holes in the needle jet a totally filled with dirt

BTW, the main jet and the starter jet are in the float bowls.
To remove them use an exact suitable screw driver to loosen the jets.
You can destroy the brass easily.