TOPIC:

I have a hanging throttle when the bike is warm. Stays at 3k. I can sometimes coax it down by letting the clutch out so it comes down, and it'll stay down half the time until i give it more throttle.

Here are my plugs as viewed from sitting on the bike. The carbs were just rebuilt so they aren't synced yet, but I don't have a way to at the moment.

I've been turning the vac screw on the top front, but to no avail. If i have any leaks they are microscopic as everything is on correctly.

Do you have pods and if so have you rejetted?

A hanging idle indicates a lean condition, often a result of bad rubber carb boots causing vacuum leaks. Spraying a combustible fluid on the boots will show gross leaks but not small ones.

This bike is original all the way down to the emissions system that has not been removed

Sync the carbs and get back to us.
Eliminate as many variables as possible in your state of tuning will help us help you
Dave

As Street Fighter LTD stated you should eliminate as many variables as possible. One that is easy to test is the carb holders for leaks. Time and heat will cause tiny cracks in the carb holders' mating surfaces where they seal against the cylinder head, and these cracks cannot be seen with the carb holders mounted on the head. The good news is that testing for these leaks is easy. Here's how:

Make sure the vacuum caps are tight on the carb holder nipples.

Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature.

Temporarily set the idle as low as possible without stalling the engine. It should be down below 1000 rpm. The lower the better because when it is set low the carb slides are closed (or nearly closed) and this raises the vacuum level in the carb holders. The combination of the increased carb holder vacuum level and the very low idle amplifies the effect of the leak test.

Once the idle is set low, spray carb cleaner around each of the carb holders where they bolt to the cylinder head and where the carbs attach to them. If there are leaks, the vacuum in the carb holders will suck the carb cleaner in and this will affect the idle. It may cause the engine to stall. If the leaks are at the carb holder / cylinder head mating surface you need to replace the holders. If the leak is where the carbs attach to the holders you may be able to tighten the clamps enough to seal the leak. Some folks use starter fluid or other substances for the test, but carb cleaner works best as it doesn’t evaporate too quickly like ether and leaves no residue on the engine like WD40.

If you do need new holders just bite the bullet and buy them. Trying to seal things up with some kind of sealant or goop will only lead to frustration as it will at best only last a short time. Ed

Have never seen microscopic leaks cause plugs to look like that
To me the plugs indicate a severely undersized main jet, as previously asked are pods involved?? If so I definitely would bet on incorrect jetting, not getting enough fuel into the combustion chamber.
If it were air leaks I think they would be massive, basically audible to make plugs look like that.
Just my 2 cents

EZ

I'll do what i can, but i have covered most of the suggestions before posting. I'll double check everything. To be clear the carbs were synced before and it still did the same thing when hot. Now just when warm and hot both. That's actually why i asked for more thoughts on it as the problem seems to be something other than the sync. They are very close, just not perfect. Thanks for all the suggestions!

Knowing your driving style would help pinpoint probable areas needing adjustment .
Do you spend most of your riding in a stop and go city type riding ?? If so fattening up midrange would be your focus.
Do you run the highways and run a lot of wide open throttle riding .Mid to high end focus of change needed
Have you checked your timing for how much total advance you are running ?
All these things matter when adjusting your bikes tuning .
I dont doubt at all that a increase in main jet size will help from looking at the plug pictures so go ahead and jump up to the next size .
Please dont start changing more than one thing at a time as this can confuse what helps and what doesnt
I would install new plugs so they will be easier to read for color and deposits
Let us know how it goes.
Best Wishes
Dave

I drive it like a granny. Small town, lotta lights. Doesn't seem to matter if its just warmed up or riding 30 minutes.

Factory everything other than the irrelevant handlebars.

Would try enriching the carb pilot circuit fuel mixtures.

And also use a timing light to assure proper functioning of the advancer.

Good Fortune!

Could remove and run without all the clean air apparatus which has a lot of possible places for allowing intake leaks.

Removal is quick and simple, and easily reversible.

Good Fortune!

Removed the carbs last night and sealed the intake boots to ensure no leaks. Also reset the carbs vacuum air mixture screws to 2.5 turns. Didn't notice any changes, but eill continue to tune today.