Help a newbeginner..

If the idle is creeping up when hot you got a lean condition, possibly leaking air into the rubber boots.

I'm not familiar with those particular carbs but typically the pilot fuel screws on the bottom should be open about 7/8 turn from lightly seated and the pilot air screws, located on the side, should be about double that.

One major issue you may have it jetting. VM24's with a 750 engine is sort of uncharted territory. Only thing I can suggest is to keep experimenting to see what helps and what doesn't. If the stock jetting is a 100 main and you are at 125 it seems to me that you are too rich but I'm not a jetting guy. Typically, when running pods, you need to bump the mains about 4 steps or so. And the pilots should never be bumped more than one size.

If you have the option to install the airbox w/filter and return the jetting to stock I'd start there. You can always move back to pods after you confirm the engine is reliable and well sorted.

Good luck

Nessism wrote: If the idle is creeping up when hot you got a lean condition, possibly leaking air into the rubber boots.

I'm not familiar with those particular carbs but typically the pilot fuel screws on the bottom should be open about 7/8 turn from lightly seated and the pilot air screws, located on the side, should be about double that.

One major issue you may have it jetting. VM24's with a 750 engine is sort of uncharted territory. Only thing I can suggest is to keep experimenting to see what helps and what doesn't. If the stock jetting is a 100 main and you are at 125 it seems to me that you are too rich but I'm not a jetting guy. Typically, when running pods, you need to bump the mains about 4 steps or so. And the pilots should never be bumped more than one size.

If you have the option to install the airbox w/filter and return the jetting to stock I'd start there. You can always move back to pods after you confirm the engine is reliable and well sorted.

Good luck

I got a advise from a person on Facebook (hehe), he said I could try with some "start gas", spraying around the inlet and the engine should not react on it.

gordone wrote:
I got a advise from a person on Facebook (hehe), he said I could try with some "start gas", spraying around the inlet and the engine should not react on it.

I believe he was telling you how to check for vacuum leaks around your intake. Spraying fluid (carb cleaner, brake cleaner, wd-40) around the boots will temporarily block the air leak, which may cause the RPM to drop. If the RPM drops while you're spraying you know you have a leak in the connection point between carbs and engine. A leak there will allow air to be pulled past the carb into the engine creating a lean condition. Lean condition = high RPM

Conspiracy wrote:

gordone wrote:
I got a advise from a person on Facebook (hehe), he said I could try with some "start gas", spraying around the inlet and the engine should not react on it.

I believe he was telling you how to check for vacuum leaks around your intake. Spraying fluid (carb cleaner, brake cleaner, wd-40) around the boots will temporarily block the air leak, which may cause the RPM to drop. If the RPM drops while you're spraying you know you have a leak in the connection point between carbs and engine. A leak there will allow air to be pulled past the carb into the engine creating a lean condition. Lean condition = high RPM

I`m quite sure he thinked about the gas will increase RPM since it`s start gas, the vaccum will suck in... ?

Keep the rs as low as possible to make the most vacuum at the carb/holder when spraying and have read more than a few times on here that will only show a large leak and not a small one but give it a try anyway. And when you take the carbs off to jet em give us a straight on picture of the bowl still on the carbs so if we can see if it has the second pilot screw on the bottom.