Help a newbeginner..

ahh, you have check what jets I have ? I have written what Jets I have eraliere in these thread.

I will drive and check the spark plugs tomorrow.
Can I just take them out and take a look at them or must I drive some spesial first and then take them out?

I`m realy grateful you taking time for looking into my issue.

The previuous owner said the bike has runned nice for 5 years hehe... He is lying then if the jets are to small...

I will check the plugs tomorrow.

I have seen your sync video and the (full) throttle response and feedback of the engine was not so good.
To check the spark plugs warm up the engine and ride the bike for a short distance ( 2 - 3 miles ) under full throttle.
Stop the engine with the kill switch under full throttle and then check the spark plugs color (take a picture).

To me it sounds like a typical problem related to using pods and not properly rejetting (if such a thing is truly possible).

Did the bike have pods on it when you bought it? If so, did it run well when you bought it? If not, have you gone through the rejetting exercise to tune the carbs to work ok with pods? Do you still have the stock airbox and filter? Ed

Scirocco wrote: I have seen your sync video and the (full) throttle response and feedback of the engine was not so good.
To check the spark plugs warm up the engine and ride the bike for a short distance ( 2 - 3 miles ) under full throttle.
Stop the engine with the kill switch under full throttle and then check the spark plugs color (take a picture).

When you saying (full) throotle are you ref. to the video? I was not giving full throttle on the video maybe only 20-30%.
But the full throotle is not good... almost no respons... the sound from the big is almost like it try to start... pickin up on something, but it dident start... if I can say it like that..

Must I clean the plugs before I do these?
I will drive to the bike tomorrow and do these test, will take picutes and publish here.

Are we sure that I havent done something wrong with the mix screw who can cause these problem we are facing?

650ed wrote: To me it sounds like a typical problem related to using pods and not properly rejetting (if such a thing is truly possible).

Did the bike have pods on it when you bought it? If so, did it run well when you bought it? If not, have you gone through the rejetting exercise to tune the carbs to work ok with pods? Do you still have the stock airbox and filter? Ed

Thank you for taking time, in page 1 for these thread will you find more information.
It was snow when I bouth the bike, so It was not possible to test drive it, we only runned on natural....
The Pods was installed when I boufgt it and the owner, said we have used the bike for 5 seasons without any issues... I don`t know If I can trust him on that... I have not done any rejetting and I have the airbox, but not the filter.

Please see attached link for jet size installed when I bought the bike and what is installed now also:
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/dyser.jpg

If it was my bike I would install the air box, buy and install the stock air filter, and install the stock jetting. I would then tune the bike and get it running well. If at that point I still wanted to install the pods I would have a baseline from which to measure their performance as I fiddled with trying to find the best jetting combination. Ed

650ed wrote: If it was my bike I would install the air box, buy and install the stock air filter, and install the stock jetting. I would then tune the bike and get it running well. If at that point I still wanted to install the pods I would have a baseline from which to measure their performance as I fiddled with trying to find the best jetting combination. Ed

I`m going to use pods in the end anyway, so I don`t think I save time by going first to original airfilter first and then going to pods, have to re jet two times then?

It must be other on these forum who has same engine and carbs with pods ? what jets are they using? I can then use that as a baseline?

if you see on page one is a person saying that he think the jets are to rich, hopefully will test tomorrow show us that.

Watching your thread. I have very similar issues on my z1. I just tested Air screw and was still increasing rpm at two turns out. I have one size larger pilots than stock. I will test more tomorrow and post if I think my finding will help you.

Conspiracy wrote: Watching your thread. I have very similar issues on my z1. I just tested Air screw and was still increasing rpm at two turns out. I have one size larger pilots than stock. I will test more tomorrow and post if I think my finding will help you.

Thank you, what type of filter have you?

How much RPM are ou able to gain be screw on the mix screw?

I`m not sure how many rpm increase you shall get when you play with the screw, I havent seen signifant change in the RPM, just that the engine sound to get more smoother and some higher RPM.

Running pot filter on bikes is a very difficult process of tuning for the right jets and needles.
Finding the right setting for a wide range of good throttle to engine response under all riding conditions without a DYNO is along
way of try and error and you can damage your engine (carbs) before you reaching our destination.
Go the stock way and set a baseline like 650ed said.
I have remove my pod filters to save me time and some frustrating moments.

Michael

Scirocco wrote: Running pot filter on bikes is a very difficult process of tuning for the right jets and needles.
Finding the right setting for a wide range of good throttle to engine response under all riding conditions without a DYNO is along
way of try and error and you can damage your engine (carbs) before you reaching our destination.
Go the stock way and set a baseline like 650ed said.
I have remove my pod filters to save me time and some frustrating moments.

Michael

Hem hem... So by installing the orginal airbox and get the bike running smoth I can then go back to the pot filter after.
And in total I will save time and frustatrion. Maybe I need todo that. My bike is orginal 650CC so the motor have been replaced with a 750CC. I have a airbox who followed the bike, I need to figure out if the airbox is for my 750 or the orginal 650 engine then.
Properly is it for the 750 motor.

Setup I have is: KZ750-4 engine with VM24 carburetors.

Anyway I have done what you ask me todo yesterday.

1. I cleaned the plugs best as possible in red liquor.
2. I started the engine and warm it up on idle... The engine was running on 1k RPM and when it went hot the idle was incresing by it self to 1,5 or 2, I dont remember, I saw that the water gas from the aux. was disapear around the same time.
3. I drive 300-400m to where there a long climb for 700-1000 metric meteres.
4. I have full throttle and had full throttle in 2 or 3 gear can`t remember, it was only getting 6-7k RPM and it dident increase more,
the bike was going constant no jumping in the RPM, but it was not incresing the RPM more... missing alot of HK here...

I recorded a video when I was driving to the test climb and on the climbs see linke below, the sound was not really good:
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/carb_tuning/IMG_3689.MOV

You can hear on the video when It was on top of the climp I redunce the throttle quick I fot a poff I killed the engine at the same time.

I took picture and a short video of each plugs after these test, please see the link:
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/carb_tuning/

I also recored a video, when I tried to adjust the mix screw for cylinder 4 after the previous tests,
to show you what effect I got, as you see it hard to see the ROPM increase? You can hear the engine stopping up when the mix screw is completely closed and it start to go better 1 turn pluss some extra... ??
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/carb_tuning/IMG_3698.MOV

For information KZ750-4 engine with VM24 carburetors.

In your very 1st picture you have a pic of the bowl and a air screw...... mine are the other type (air screw) and IF I'm seeing this right these are the pilot screw type........ are these installed at the bottom front on the bowl..... if so these need to be turned out 1 and 1/8th of a turn from lightly seated......

I would set the top air screws to 1 and a 1/4 out like you have them now and forget em for now (should be close enough)..... setting them for highest rpms are very hard to hear (and I believe requires a trained ear) and I've read you need a special tack that shows a 50 rpm rise to set em. 25 pilots and 125 mains are plenty rich but not sure if this is part of the problem. Mine is pretty close with 17.5s and 117.5 mains and needle in the 5th clip. I even ran this jetting with a open air box and then open carbs for years and had no problem hitting 3 to 500 in the red in 5th gear. Carb holders sound like they are not sealing the best but not sure if they are your main problem. Do you have a fuel filter on it? Keep try in hopefully someone will hit on the solution.