Choke Shaft Seal, Keihin 34? KZ750H LTD 1980

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26 Oct 2016 07:37 #746251 by Nessism
Replied by Nessism on topic Choke Shaft Seal, Keihin 34? KZ750H LTD 1980
I've got all the various O-ring sizes for these Keihin's figured out and sourced. I posted the info in a different thread about these Keihin's but I'm too lazy to look it up at the moment so if anyone is interested please PM me and I'll find the info.

Having a box of generic O-rings is a good thing, but when working on something holding back gasoline just below your crotch I recommend getting the proper sizes in all cases.

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  • FaultedGeologist
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06 Mar 2017 23:19 - 06 Mar 2017 23:32 #756023 by FaultedGeologist
Replied by FaultedGeologist on topic Choke Shaft Seal, Keihin 34? KZ750H LTD 1980

Nessism wrote: Having a box of generic O-rings is a good thing, but when working on something holding back gasoline just below your crotch I recommend getting the proper sizes in all cases.


Heh...

I lost you in the emails long ago. Finally nabbed the O-rings and got ready to put it back together, then I found my parts shuffled. Thanks for the above photo.

I had someone say to use blue Loctite (Auto store had Permatex medium strength threadlocker blue - "For use where disassembly is common" on the package) in case I had to get back in to the carbs. Would the red thread lock set more like a JB Weld epoxy?

It's about time to finish this project.

Edit: What is the setup you pulled on the idle adjuster? It looks like an adjusting screw and lock nut. My stock carbs have that spring-on-a-long-ass-bolt-with-a-plastic-knob-on-the-end thing.

Clint
1980 KZ750 LTD H4
FSMaunual: kz.bike-night.com/media/GPz750-full.pdf
Stock except for:
New chain and sprocket (530?).
Dynatek Ignition
Manual tensioner on the way.

Buy JIS screwdrivers.
Last edit: 06 Mar 2017 23:32 by FaultedGeologist.

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07 Mar 2017 05:16 #756030 by Nessism
Replied by Nessism on topic Choke Shaft Seal, Keihin 34? KZ750H LTD 1980
Red loctite is what you want. The strongest available. Don't worry, you can still get off the screws fairly easily. I also recommend flaring the ends of the screws just in case. If one vibrates loose it's going inside your engine which is not good.

To make the flaring tool I took a small file and sharpened the end into a point shape with a bench grinder and then the end was cut off with a dremel cut off wheel. I then used modeling clay to sort of prop up the pointy nub on the jaw of some channel lock type pliers. It's fiddly work to get that nub on the jaws inside the old screw but once you get it there give the pliers a good ol squeeze and the end will flare out. Pull the nub out of the end of the screw and go to the next one. Harder to describe than to do.

Good luck

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