Bogs down during hard acceleration?

Recently put some cones on the carbs and a less restrictive 4 - 1. It's mot so bad on mild acceleration but if I crack it open it falters. Do you guys think the AFR is too lean? What could I do to improve the situation, raise or lower the needles or float bowls? Any advice would be much appreciated

Yes, very lean. If you bought Emgo or Chinese filters, tou may never get them to work. On a stock engine with quality (APE or K&N) and a quality exhaust system, the very best you can hope for is that it will run almost as good as stock.

Search this site for discussion threads on pod filters. You may be overwhelmed at how hard it can be to get them dialed in. I'd recommend starting with a Dynojet Stage 3 kit, or the equivalent from Ivan's or Dale Walker if they make one for your bike.

Wow, that is a concern. I know most stuff Chinese is shit so why I thought these cones would be any different is stupid. I'll do some research

The main problem with those pods is that they will cover the air jets in the mouth of the carbs. If your carbs have them, you may be able to cut away some of the rubber on the inside, hopefully not creating any new problems. It is mich simpler to start with quality parts.

The jets will definitely need to be changed. The main (and secondary main if you have them) will need to be a couple of sizes or more larger. The low speed will need to be larger if it is metering fuel. If it is an air jet, you may need to go a step smaller. If your needles are adjustable or shimable, you may be able to keep them. Otherwise, new needles will be needed.

I seem to remember from another thread that you wanting to use some non-stock carbs. If that is the case, they will introduce a whole new level of complication since the stock jets might not even be correct for your bike in its stock form.

It might be simpler to contact one of the companies I mentioned and tell them exactly what you have and get their recommendations.

The Kawasaki KZ750 Spectre came with CV type carbs. Because of the way they operate, tuning them for pods can be a life-long experiment. With enough time, money, and patience you may get them to run almost as well as throughout the rpm range as the stock air box. Keep in mind that the folks who engineered the engine, carbs, and air boxes on these bikes were true experts in their respective areas, had lots of experience and resources at their disposal, and had a focus on overall performance. They did an excellent job. Ed

Go to Z1 Enterprises on the web, look up your bike and then go to the carb section. They have stage kits for the CV carbs when you want to switch to individual filters, Lose the china parts, Buy K&N and make sure the inlet ports to the carbs are clear. The stage kit will have jets, new slide needles and drills to open up the vacuum ports in the slides. Good luck.