81 kz305

When addressing the timing, set the gap first, then leave the gap alone (and don't mess with it again) while next proceeding with actual adjustment of the timing by aligning the F marks with the case mark.

Good Fortune!

That doesn't make much sense. I've only got one big plate and gap adjustments. And the manual tells me to move the gap to set the right side.

The gap is usually set at its widest position when the heel of the points is sitting on the highest part of the cam lobe.

The timing is usually adjusted after the gap is set by aligning the F mark just as the points begin opening as the heel starts to climb the cam.

Maybe the 81 KZ305 is different.

Will try to find an excerpt from the FSM.

Good Fortune!

Am not certain the following page applies to the model at hand, but may be helpful.




Movement of the backing plate inside the elongated slots should not affect the gap.
The gap doesn't care when the heel reaches the top of the cam (aka rotor).
The timing adjusts when the points begin to open as the heel ascends/climbs the cam.

And I believe the motor runs "backward" -- meaning that when riding, the crankshaft rotates opposite to direction that the wheels are turning.
If so, when setting the timing, the heel of the points will rise up onto the cam as the crankshaft is rotated opposite to direction of wheel rotation.

Good Fortune!

The basic rule to remember when dealing with a points ignition is that the opening of the points (i.e., separation of the contacts) is the event that causes the coil to fire (which causes the spark plug to fire).

And that such event -- the opening of the points (i.e., separation of the contacts) -- should occur when the F mark aligns with the case mark.

This is because the coil charges while its primary winding is grounded through closed points; which primary winding becomes un-grounded upon opening of the points which causes the coil to fire through the spark plug.

The reason the gap is set first and then left alone thereafter while setting the timing is that changing the gap will itself alter the alignment of the F mark with the case mark.

Good Fortune!

Points are remarkably simple to install and adjust, but you must first understand what the adjustments do. You MUST set the gap first and then leave it alone. Then you set the timing. Maybe this will help....

Before attempting to replace or adjust the points the following is important to understand; timing is comprised of two separate components, and BOTH of these components MUST be set properly if the engine is to run well:

--- The GAP – this is the distance the points spread apart when fully open. This is set by adjusting the points. The GAP is the element that determines the DWELL. In essence, the DWELL is the number of degrees of points cam rotation that the points are closed and this controls the amount of time the coils receive a charge before firing the spark plugs.

--- The TIMING of the initial opening of the points (the point at which the continuity across the points breaks) controls the precise instant that the coils receive the signal to fire the spark plugs. This is set by turning the backplate AFTER the gap is set.

The diagram doesn't show slots in the backing plate.

In the model at hand, perhaps the gap-setting and timing are simultaneously interrelated in a manner that I'm not familiar with.

How about posting a pic of the page from your manual that describes how to set the points ignition timing.

Good Fortune!

here a link to the manual.

jpavlov.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/kawa...2_service_manual.pdf

starts on page 13. it does say to adjust gap on the right to adjust timing. this is whats giving me trouble. im going to attempt it again tonight, i just got frustrated last night plus i spent way too much time adjusting valve clearance and assembling the carbs before i got to the points.

but like i said, it seems like im going to be in an endless loop trying to set timing and gap if i keep at it. perhaps the points are too worn. i set them last year as close as possible just to get it going and when i checked the gap on the right point there was non...... good job adjusting last year, cant be good for the coils. also just realized that the hard start when cold was probably caused by my 0 valve clearance. not sure why i never checked that last year either.

The setup is a little different in that the screws are outboard of the mounting plate, so it doesn't need the slots. The plate still turns. Here's a pic. Ed

Janz3n wrote: here a link to the manual.

jpavlov.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/kawa...2_service_manual.pdf

starts on page 13. it does say to adjust gap on the right to adjust timing. this is whats giving me trouble. im going to attempt it again tonight, i just got frustrated last night plus i spent way too much time adjusting valve clearance and assembling the carbs before i got to the points.

but like i said, it seems like im going to be in an endless loop trying to set timing and gap if i keep at it. perhaps the points are too worn. i set them last year as close as possible just to get it going and when i checked the gap on the right point there was non...... good job adjusting last year, cant be good for the coils. also just realized that the hard start when cold was probably caused by my 0 valve clearance. not sure why i never checked that last year either.

it seems like im going to be in an endless loop trying to set timing and gap if i keep at it -- Not if set the gap first and then forget it.

Then -- leaving the gap alone -- adjust timing via the static method for idle rpm, using the moveable backing plate..
Just ignore the advance marks, and don't worry about or fool with the advance marks.

May then, if desired, use a timing light to view actual alignment of marks at idle rpm.

May fine tune the timing (via the moveable backing plate adjustment) at idle rpm if desired, but NOT the gap.
Once the gap is correctly adjusted and set, don't mess with it again. (Oh! Wait! Has that possibly already been covered? :lol: )

Good Fortune!

ok but the right side timing is opening the points a little too early and if i move the plate to set the right the left is out. also i understand why you say not to touch the gap after setting it but why does the manual say to use the gap to set timing?

Here is my interpretation for whatever anybody thinks it is worth.

Patton, 650Ed and the fsm are saying the very same thing up to the bottom of page 14 in the fsm.
At that point, the fsm continues -
Once the gaps on both points are set, and the timing for cylinder 1 has been verified and adjusted if necessary, check the timing on cylinder 2. If it is not in spec, adjust the right (2) set of points just a little, staying within the 0.3-0.4mm range. Recheck the timing. If correct timing cannot be achieved by jacking with the gap (within tolerance), reset points 2 to 0.35 and try the same procedure for points 1. If that does not result in correct timing for both cylinders, replace the points because they are are worn past serviceability.

ymmv