I know it's on here somewhere but i cant find it.

I just got my 28's rebuilt by Wired George beautiful work by the way when I throttle it the throttle hangs for a sec or 2 before lowering aging throttle is not sticking If I remember correctly that could be air leak am I correct? Battery wasant fully charged atm neither its on charger right now .Guess I should spray some wd40 at the carb boots see if it affects it.

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Jae2828 wrote: I just got my 28's rebuilt by Wired George beautiful work by the way when I throttle it the throttle hangs for a sec or 2 before lowering aging throttle is not sticking If I remember correctly that could be air leak am I correct? Battery wasant fully charged atm neither its on charger right now .Guess I should spray some wd40 at the carb boots see if it affects it.

. . . throttle is not sticking . . . .

With engine not running, there should be noticeable click made by the carburetor slides as they reach bottom when the throttle grip is returned to its closed position (after being slightly opened).

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Jae2828 wrote: I just got my 28's rebuilt by Wired George beautiful work by the way when I throttle it the throttle hangs for a sec or 2 before lowering aging throttle is not sticking If I remember correctly that could be air leak am I correct? Battery wasant fully charged atm neither its on charger right now .Guess I should spray some wd40 at the carb boots see if it affects it.

Use Carb cleaner rather than WD40. WD40 will make an oily mess; carb cleaner will evaporate and leave no mess. Here's the drill:

The carb holders will eventually develop tiny cracks in the mating surfaces between the holders and the cylinder head that can cause them to leak at idle. These cracks cannot be seen with the carb holders in place. I suggest you try the following. Get the engine warmed up and temporarily set the idle as low as possible without killing the engine (lower than 900 rpm if possible). The lower the better because with the idle very low the slides are nearly shut and the vacuum inside the carb holders is at its highest. Then spray carb cleaner around the carb holders, especially where they mate with the cylinder head and where the carbs attach to them. Carb cleaner works best for this test as it doesn't leave an oily mess with WD40 or evaporate so quickly that it is not drawn into the leaks as can happen with propane or starting fluid (ether). If the engine dies or reacts to the carb cleaner, you need to replace the carb holders. Carb holder leak related problems are noticeable at idle but generally don't have much impact when riding because the throttle is open. If you find you need to replace the carb holders soak the screws with Kroil for a couple days before attempting to remove them, and use JIS standard, NOT Phillips, screwdriver bits, and this will greatly improve the odds that you will not break or strip a carb holder fastener as so many have done. Let me know if you need info on JIS bits, I have a good link for making your own at no cost. Ed

Thanks for the reply I will get some spray carb cleaner all I have is sea foam atm why I was going to used wd but I see what your saying wd will make a mess.

For those who might wish to also see evidence of ingestion of outside air instead of only hearing it, some folks prefer using WD40 despite the slight residue, because ingestion of WD40 not only results in an audible difference in idle performance (sometimes barely perceptible), but also results in pronounced easily seen smoke emanating from the exhaust.

Another even more ultra-clean spray medium is propane gas from a propane cylinder (unlit of course), which quickly and easily envelopes a larger area, but isn't as directional as the other more "pointed" spray mediums can be when using a thin nozzle tube.

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Aside from any sound the easiest way to see the affect of a leak when spraying anything on the carb holders is to watch the tachometer. If the carb holders are leaking the rpm will definitely change when the carb cleaner, WD40, propane, etc. is sucked into the leak. When detecting the leaks on my bike I set the idle at around 800 rpm (lower than normal idle). When I sprayed carb cleaner around the carb holders the engine actually stopped running. Talk about a clear indication of leaks! :laugh: Ed

Whether the RPM goes up or down depends how much you spray, how bad the leak is, where the leak is, and whether or not the jetting has already been altered for the leak condition. It also depends on what you spray.

Just out of curiosity.... Carb sync performed, all 4 to spec....?

Wired George bench synchs them I just got it running and adjusted air screw a bit was hoping I could clear up the hanging revs b4 I put my vacuum synchronizer on them got the ones from z1 enterprizes used them to synch my old 29 smoothbores. and have a set I made with clear tubing and yard sticks I used to synch my kz750 ltd.

The WD-40 and propane trick only really works on extreme leaks. Smaller leaks won't show up that way.

well I charged the battery and adjusted the air to 2 1/2 turns out 3 on 1 and the hanging revs stopped will be doing the synchronization here tonight or tomorrow then doing some more air screw adjustments Its amazing how much better a bike runs on a full charge .will post updates thanks for the input appreciate it.