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Lifespan of head to carb boots.
- The_Proletariat
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How long do these things last?
I just did a valve check and cyl 3 was tighter than the other three, but still in spec. Last summer, I had problems getting this cylinder to sync. It's spark plug looked slighter leaner than the other 3 but was still tan in color. I did an ether and WD40 test of the boots and the idle didn't change.
It seems to me that this cylinder was running lean to account for the different valve lash and a vacuum leak could account for the sync problems.
I am asking because I am switching to pods and I don't want any problems.
1982 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- The_Proletariat
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650ed wrote: Of course, switching to pods is very likely to cause other problems unrelated to the carb holders. Ed
I've done a lot of reading and it appears that TK22 carbs will work with pods.
Despite my best efforts (fuel filters and stabilized fuel) I still end up ripping out the carbs at least once a year. I am sick and tired of fighting the boots on each side of the carb rack.
1982 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD
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- 650ed
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The_Proletariat wrote: Despite my best efforts (fuel filters and stabilized fuel) I still end up ripping out the carbs at least once a year. I am sick and tired of fighting the boots on each side of the carb rack.
Holy cow; that would be a pain! In 39 years I have removed my carbs 2 times. Once in 1989 because I let the bike sit too long with fuel in them and it formed varnish and once 11 years ago to replace to replace the carb holders. What causes you to need to remove yours so often? Is it to clean them after they sit for an extended period? After that happened to me the one time I never let the bike sit more than one to two weeks without starting it. I do that during the winter and it prevents any varnish from forming even without using Sta-Bil or other fuel stabilizers (plus it keeps the battery charged and oil on the cylinder walls, cams, etc.). Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- loudhvx
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But really, I have often let the bike sit with fuel in the carbs for months at a time (when I'm focusing on a different bike) and haven't really had an issue with gumming etc. Every now and then, after a long ride, or a series of riding several days in a row, I'll drain the carbs. The fresh gas from riding might dissolve whatever is in there, and then draining it will get rid of it.
Whatever you do, don't throw away the airbox and boots. If you don't want them, someone else eventually will.
Oh, and on the lifespan, I had 25 year old carb holders used with pods for 7 or 8 years. I did eventually replace them, but they were 33 years old by then.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
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- The_Proletariat
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I removed them multiple times last year because debris from the gas tank was passing the petcock strainer and inline filter and clogging up the carb vent tubes.
I need to remove the rack this year because carb #4 bowl drain screw o ring is rotted away. I would like to see what else happened in there over the winter. I have a feeling there is more damage because it wouldn't start.
I have considered draining the system in the fall but I fear the carb-to-carb o rings in the rack would deteriorate if they are dry for months at a time.
1982 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- The_Proletariat
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That being said, I will attempt your method this winter.
1982 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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