float level too high.

A few weeks ago when I had my carbs on the stand i set the float levels using the clear tube method.
All was good until Saturday i noticed my bike would not idle well when i stopped .
When i got home and set it on the side stand and got off to open my door i noticed idle improved.
Then when i stood it straight up it got worse. what the?
Immediately i knew one or more float was high so I pulled them off to check.
sure nuff #1 a nd #2 was way too high.# and #4 was marginal but on the high side.
heres my question..
is it fair to say I had set them at the high side and since I did that during cold weather and now it warm could warmer fuel expand and cause this?
I reset all the levels and now its smooth as i could ever ask for.

Is it possible that the stand was not level when you set the float levels? Ed

The problem is not related to the temperature of the fuel.

You should use the centerstand with the bike on level ground when doing the clear tube test. If you don't have a centerstand then some sort of track stand should work. Last resort have someone hold the bike upright while you work on it.

It's not uncommon to have to readjust things after they get settled.
Steve

I had the carbs off and on my carb stand . but there ya go was it level? i thought so .
any way I didnt tell the whole story here.
there is a thread on here call "persistent flat spot at idle"
this is what I have been chasing since i got the bike. I would think i had it and then ..crap.. not yet but closer.
I had bought a set of carbs a while back and spent a lot of time disassembling ,cleaning and replacing o-rings.
when I pulled the carbs saturday I took the best parts from both sets and this is what i ended up with .
when i had the new(to me ) set apart I made sure the needle clip was set at the 3rd groove per factory specs.
well since i have my old set on the bench i pulled a needle today to see where it was. Ha !! it had no adjustment grooves at all.
So either the PO had those needles changed or they didnt come adjustable. But the flat spot is gone. and good ridance lol.
The real test was this morning . Ive been warming it up as I put on my gear and every time even though it idlled fine with no choke
I have to play with the lever a little to get it out of the drive(up hill)
this morn i was able to fire it and get off the choke almost immediately and it came out of the drive smoothly.
So my lesson here is those needles do make or break a tuning.

Now with ll that said I have another issue.
The bike is running better than its even ran ..I pulled the plugs and they are right where i want them.
So Tuning is good but.
I noticed a small amount of fuel in the the vent tubes.
By vent tubes I mean on #2 and #4 vents. Ive installed a short piece of clear tube on each of these.
Its just a small amount but it there because i saw it last night and cleaned it off and after a ride im seeing it again.
carbs are clean and dry everywhere but there is fuel residue in those clear tubes.
Like Steve said things may need to settle in

Vents or overflows?
Steve

vents

They should come up and over the air box. No trap bends.
Steve

swest wrote: They should come up and over the air box. No trap bends.
Steve

yeah .. i have just short pieces of clear tubing hanging down toward the engine.
ill get some longer tube and run em over the air box.
I think this is a non issue because i noticed the fuel last night on the left side one.. and dry it up and now im seeing it on the right side.
this may just be residual fuel from having them upside down on the bench.
I know i cleaned those passages well when i had them apart.
I cant see any reason for fuel to enter these unless (and im reaching here) the fuel cap issue i had is still not fixed ..or the way i have them routed air turbulence creates a siphoning effect.

That's possible.
Steve

back to the float level test.
is the way i did them using my carb stand and making sure they were level correct?