No fuel from carb?

It seems like no fuel is leaving the carb into the motor. The bowls have fuel in em, I pulled the jets and cleaned them, and reassembled and they still arent working. Bike will start when you spray carb cleaner directly into the carbs and crank it. Any idea on where I should start looking? The bike is an 84 gpz550 with the tk27 carbs.

More info on bike:
Dyna S ignition
Dyna 5 ohm Coils
Dynajet Jet kit
Uni Pod Filters
Upgraded Regulator/Rectifier

Did the engine run before the modifications were made? Has it run since you have owned it? If the answers are no, then everything is suspect. I'd recommend getting out your factory service manual (not aftermarket) and carefully performing ALL the routine maintenance items as listed. This way you will eliminate problems that you may not know about, and it will be easier to pinpoint the cause or causes of the known problem. If you do not yet own a fsm, pull up a post by member loudvx, and look for a link in his signature line.

If it did run before the modifications, it MAY be safe to focus on those parts and anything that might have been bumped during installation. Is the fuel level in the carbs correct? Are all the ignition wires hooked up properly? Kink in the fuel line? Clogged filter?

If it has run since the modifications, then fuel and ignition systems would be at the top of my suspect list.

If you are not 100% sure that ALL the maintenance items have been properly done, do them. The bike will operate better and you will be happier.

Take the air cleaners off and crank the engine over with your hand sealing off the air cleaner side. You should feel a lot of vacuum and with the fuel enrichment valve open (choke) ....you should get plenty of wet fuel. If not , you really have a fuel delivery or dry carb.

Sounds like a vacume problem. Fuel in the bowl with an open jet says you are not getting enough air flow through the carb.

Got it going! Ended up being the float vents were capped off by the shop that I took it to (who charged me and ruined my bike). Now I can get it to run but as soon as the choke goes in, it dies. I have the carbs out 3.5 turns as per the dynojet instructions. Anywhere that I should start? The carbs are all clean, I'm thinking maybe the idle adjustment screw? It also seems to run better when the PCV Reed Valves on the valve cover are left open instead of blocked off too.

The dynojet kit should have information on tuning; including troubleshooting so you may want to re-check their recommendations on performance issues. On the surface it sounds like the bike's not getting enough fuel at idle, so the idle circuit needs to be checked and you can try going richer on the mixture screws, turn them out 1/2 turn each. (e.g., pilot jet size, float levels, fuel line, air flow etc. all affect the idle circuit) Any popping through exhaust or carbs? Exhaust leaks? In most cases, if your mixture screw is out past 4 turns, the jets are too small (running too lean). Be sure they are all set the same.

Ill try that out, I found the dynojet instructions so I'm going through the list. Theres a lot of popping on the exhaust after high throttle but I think that has to do more with the pcv valves being open right?

jfarhanbod wrote: Ill try that out, I found the dynojet instructions so I'm going through the list. Theres a lot of popping on the exhaust after high throttle but I think that has to do more with the pcv valves being open right?

I believe you are mistaken about the nature of those valves. You can either cap them off (or join them), or keep the "clean air" system functioning and installed. When it's functioning, the flow of air into the reed valves is cut off under high-vacuum conditions to prevent backfiring. If you leave them uncapped, then it will indeed backfire like crazy.