650B running very rich. Starting point for jets?

cjaldous wrote: ...... I can't find any reference to the stock float needle seat size for VM24SS on a KZ650.

Here's some info from a couple different KZ650 Kawasaki Service Manuals. Ed

Thanks Ed,

But I still don't see any mention of float valve size. Am I thinking crazy?
www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/mot...ge-mount-carburetors

I suppose I'll just replace all 4 with size 2.0 like I originally thought, since 3 of the 4 in my carbs are 2.0.

I assume the seat size influences how fast the float bowls refill, and would only be a problem in extended WOT.

I believe the 2.0 should be a good choice. According to the parts diagrams (see image below) the part number for the float assembly is 16030-1001, and the jetsrus.com site shows that part number as being 2.0 (see jetsrus.com/individual_parts/007_958_su.html ). Ed

I went to 2.5 on my 28's when I thought I was running out of fuel at WOT. I went from 903 to 1015 Wiseco pistons long before and always had this problem. It helped but in your case unless you are going over bore, the 2.0's should do. If the 2.5's are the same price and you want to keep the carbs, why not buy the bigger ones?
Steve

According to JetsRUs, 168-14190-20-00 is the same as the Kawasaki part number?
www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-168-14190-20-00.html

$15 each instead of $24

What everyone here says sounds spot on for fuel in oil. I've got upgraded ignition and K&N pods on my '77 650B. I'm in the process of getting it dialed in as it came with pod filters. After doing what you've done : verifying ignition integrity and timing, valve adjustment, carb rebuild including sight glass float setting, bench synch and fine syncing the carbs.

I found I was actually with the stock jetting. Stock replacement needle/seats. Pilot screws are out 2.0 turns but the pilot jets are stock. Needles in No. 4 position. No air bleeds on my VM24SS. I upped the main jets from 102.5 to 106.5 and holy moly the thing sings from 3500rpm on. That said, from a dig 2000-3000rpm she's a bit doggy. I can hear the air enter through those pods but it's a bit boggy. Turning out my pilot screws seems to have very little effect on my idle/off idle performance or vacuum. Is there a max point on the pilot circuit?

Your bike sounds similar to mine. I wouldn't change the mains or needle depth or float valve at this time. I pulled the carbs of and set them on some stands for access when setting the floats. Made it very easy to pop the bowls off and adjust. Plus, filling the carbs from the top with fuel will validate your needle/seat are functioning properly.

Good to know TO,

Unfortunately, I was recently out riding when I lost all power and found that all three fuses had blown and that new fuses immediately overheat. Clearly I have a short somewhere. I'm guessing the rectifier, or maybe the field coil.

So I'm going to be doing some (or a lot) of electrical troubleshooting before getting back to the carbs.

That's pretty wild to have all 3 fuses blow. Should be a pretty big rub/short to rub through 3 different circuits.

Good luck! May the wiring diagram be your best friend!