Cleaned Carbs Now Won't Start

Alright anyone have any instruction on how to do this ??

It runs pretty well when cold ...once it's warmed up it won't stay running and very difficult to start after it dies

Lmmduramax wrote: Sooooo I got it running .....

No idea what it was. I pulled carbs out again, popped off bowls to take a look to make sure everything was in place. Everything looked as it should. Put them back in and BANG it fired up with a roar!!

But now another problem has arised. It seems to back fire right out the carbs ! Backfires out the carbs with a little puff of smoke . What could be causing this ?

First thing comes to mind is the timing advancer.

Lmmduramax wrote: Alright anyone have any instruction on how to do this ??

It runs pretty well when cold ...once it's warmed up it won't stay running and very difficult to start after it dies

That always makes me wonder if the coil is bad. A bad coil ALWAYS craps out when hot and sometimes runs OK cold.

Lmmduramax wrote: Alright anyone have any instruction on how to do this ??

It runs pretty well when cold ...once it's warmed up it won't stay running and very difficult to start after it dies

So you don't have a manual of any kind?
Steve

Lmmduramax wrote: Alright anyone have any instruction on how to do this ??

It runs pretty well when cold ...once it's warmed up it won't stay running and very difficult to start after it dies

It's pretty simple, but you will need a helper.
Remove the fuel tank and the cam cover.
Remove the timing cover.
Provide your helper with a break over bar with a 13mm socket on it. If you prefer not to deal with broken bolts, a larger socket, perhaps 17mm, might be better.
Have your helper place the socket on the appropriate nut revealed under the previously removed timing cover.
Locate a camshaft lobe that is positioned with the pointy part pointing up.
Unzip your pants and place the tip of your wanger between the camshaft lobe and the cam follower.
Have your assistant rotate the crankshaft with his wrench two full revolutions, or until you can see the tip of your wanger on the other side if the camshaft.
If it hurts like h--- and is bleeding a bit, there may be sufficient clearance.
If the tip is cut off, then there probably is not enough clearance, and a thinner shim is required.
Repeat for all valves, keeping track of which ones have too little clearance.
When finished, remove the camshafts and replace the offending shims with thinner ones.
Reinstall the camshafts, being certain to torque the bolts to at least 90 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the camshaft cover using plenty of rtv in place of the crappy, overpriced gasket.
Reinstall the fuel tank and ride it like a girly-man.

Or you could get a factory service manual and do it the factory way.

No, just the internet

TexasKZ wrote:

Lmmduramax wrote: Alright anyone have any instruction on how to do this ??

It runs pretty well when cold ...once it's warmed up it won't stay running and very difficult to start after it dies

It's pretty simple, but you will need a helper.
Remove the fuel tank and the cam cover.
Remove the timing cover.
Provide your helper with a break over bar with a 13mm socket on it. If you prefer not to deal with broken bolts, a larger socket, perhaps 17mm, might be better.
Have your helper place the socket on the appropriate nut revealed under the previously removed timing cover.
Locate a camshaft lobe that is positioned with the pointy part pointing up.
Unzip your pants and place the tip of your wanger between the camshaft lobe and the cam follower.
Have your assistant rotate the crankshaft with his wrench two full revolutions, or until you can see the tip of your wanger on the other side if the camshaft.
If it hurts like h--- and is bleeding a bit, there may be sufficient clearance.
If the tip is cut off, then there probably is not enough clearance, and a thinner shim is required.
Repeat for all valves, keeping track of which ones have too little clearance.
When finished, remove the camshafts and replace the offending shims with thinner ones.
Reinstall the camshafts, being certain to torque the bolts to at least 90 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the camshaft cover using plenty of rtv in place of the crappy, overpriced gasket.
Reinstall the fuel tank and ride it like a girly-man.

Or you could get a factory service manual and do it the factory way.

Alright thanks I'll be sure to use this technique

:huh: :laugh: :lol: :blink: :blush: :woohoo: :evil: :pinch: :whistle:
I can't believe he said that. :woohoo:
Get a manual.
Steve

I apologize. That was the best laugh I've had for a while. A good manual is one of the most important tools you can have. I've been wrenching on this bike for 40 years. Still I have to look up something from time to time.
Steve

swest wrote: I apologize. That was the best laugh I've had for a while. A good manual is one of the most important tools you can have. I've been wrenching on this bike for 40 years. Still I have to look up something from time to time.
Steve

Where does everyone recommend I get a manual from ? Any preferred sites or brands ?

A factory service manual is the best. Get one for your specific bike. The others use a "shot gun" approach listing many different models. They can be useful but they can be confusing and vague. There've been reports of typo's making the reader tighten down to 90' pounds when it should have been 90" pounds. Broken bolts and destroyed threads were the result.
Steve

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