Z1R hard starting

Timed, synced the carbs, rechecked the point gap, new battery, new air filter and got the bone stock 1978 Z1R running sweet but it is very hard to start warm or cold/ choke or no choke. It seems to crank and crank without starting then it fires faintly and runs like new. I know these bikes where lean from the factory, do you think this is my problem? Am I looking at raising the needle or a larger pilot jet? I would like to hear from someone with a Z1R that has experienced this.

nice bike sir.





my 1980 z1r was starting kinda hard and didn't seem like it would fire until just as i let off the button.
i cleaned up the contact on the button in the switch housing and it seemed to straighten up.

hth,

leon

I would NOT fiddle with the carbs if it runs well once started.

Instead, try this - when the engine is cold put the choke on; do NOT touch the throttle, and use the kickstarter. If it starts more easily the issue most likely is that the coils are competing the electric starter for electrical power, and the coils are losing the competition. The electric starter draws a lot of juice from the battery. Assuming the battery is fully charged when you're having the problem I would check the voltage at the coils. It's possible that they are not receiving enough voltage to supply a hot spark when the electric starter is running. If that is the case, you may simply need to clean all the connections so the coils have better connectivity. Ed

Does your Z1R have a ballast resistor? some did I think ...

This ballast resistor is what keeps a fat spark even when the battery voltage is down due to the starter sucking most ofthe power out of it.

When bike is running it the ignition feed goes through a reisitor and the coils are usually running i think on about 6 volts, when bike is cranking the resistor is bypassed and the 6v coil gets a super high charge nearer 10 volts to aid starting. Might be worth checking. as you say it runs sweet once started.

All very good points to go on. I think if the clutch switch allows the engine to crank, it would also allow the engine to fire so I think the switch is OK. I did see a small ballast resistor under the tank just
Ike the old Dodges of the 70's. I will bypass that first and then check the coils next. Today I raised the needle jets and re synced the carbs with the same hard starting problem. I am thinking you guys are right with it being electrical. It cranks and cranks then fires a bit but doesn't start. It seems to start just as I let go of the stRter button. Starved for juice....electrical juice. I will investigate tomorrow and report back. Thanks you guys. This is why I love these forums.

I had to try raising the jet needle and I did last night. Still didn't want to start. I got home from work and tested the ballast resistor and the coils...all good. Then I noticed that the fuse in the wire that I use to connect the battery charger had blown. The battery was low due to all that cranking and not starting so I replaced the fuse and let it charge over night. The bike started fine when I got home today and purrs like a Ferrari. If some else is reading this post let it be known that these bike must have a good battery with a full charge to start it with the electric starter.
Thanks to you guys for the posts. I'm glad it was this easy.