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Adjusting float level with carbs on bike
- Markovich
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1990 KZ1000P, 72k miles, 10 years in storage, new, bars, tires, chain and sprockets, seat, carbs cleaned, police equipement removed.
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- Markovich
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1990 KZ1000P, 72k miles, 10 years in storage, new, bars, tires, chain and sprockets, seat, carbs cleaned, police equipement removed.
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- Tomolu5
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In my experience its not worth the hassle trying to do this on the bike, I pull them off, flip them upside down and tilt them to and fro till all the gas comes out, clamp them to the rack and get to business. I would wager the most that you could save doing them on the bike would be about 10 minutes.
I guess if only one float needs adjusted, but even then I would clear tube test all 4
Mine:
04 Honda rebel 250(wifes)
04 GSXR 750(bolt on galore)
98 CBR 600F3(filter, pipe, adjustable cam sprokets, dyno tune)
76 KZ900A (LTD gauge pods, crash bars, LTD(style)pipes, dyna coils and ignition,headwork and mild port cleanup by cavanaugh racing, K&N filter pods, heck I dunno.
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- kaw-a-holic
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Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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- Tomolu5
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I used to just rachet strap mine to a piece of scrap wood that was clamped in a bench vise, not exactly a high end setup, but it worked just fine.kaw-a-holic wrote: Unfortunately not everyone has a carb stand. I personally use a magnet to pull the pin and take the float out to adjust the tang. I like adjusting the float while they are on the bike because that is the angle in which the carbs will always sit. But I like doing things the hard way.
I never understood the obsession with having them level on both axis's, or any axis for that matter. I mean really, how freaking often is that gonna happen when they are in service??? I understand getting them close, but I seldom use more than my eyeballs.
Mine:
04 Honda rebel 250(wifes)
04 GSXR 750(bolt on galore)
98 CBR 600F3(filter, pipe, adjustable cam sprokets, dyno tune)
76 KZ900A (LTD gauge pods, crash bars, LTD(style)pipes, dyna coils and ignition,headwork and mild port cleanup by cavanaugh racing, K&N filter pods, heck I dunno.
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- matthewwp56
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- yah!
Now is there a full detailed rebuild instructions for simply cleaning and setting everything to default online or here somewhere?
Thanks, revpops 720-270-0154
hishousemedia.com detroit/denver
I have a phone - 720-270-0154
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- Tomolu5
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-acquire new gaskets, a variety of NEW jets, and new needle valves(and any parts determined to be damaged during initial inspection)
- Google "homemade soda blaster", make one, and blast the rack while assembled(stuff paper towels in throats)
- disassemble entire rack including individual carbs, and blow all passages with compressed air
-soak Carb bodies in a one gallon Carb cleaner solution(available at most auto parts stores) then rinse.
-find member "PATTON"s guide for cleaning the pilot circuit, and follow it
- reassmble the rack, and use a paper clip as a feeler gauge to "bench sync" the slides.
-set the float heights using the clear tube method( I like to let it sit for 15 minutes or so just to be sure they aren't seeping slowly).
- take a rough guess at jetting, and assemble( save your new bowl gasket till your happy with the running)
- get it running good, then using a rack of vac guages sync the carbs.
If you had all the stuff, this could be done in a day, except maybe the tuning and sync part.
Don't be shy to tell me if I have something backwards or wrong here, this is just what works for me.
Mine:
04 Honda rebel 250(wifes)
04 GSXR 750(bolt on galore)
98 CBR 600F3(filter, pipe, adjustable cam sprokets, dyno tune)
76 KZ900A (LTD gauge pods, crash bars, LTD(style)pipes, dyna coils and ignition,headwork and mild port cleanup by cavanaugh racing, K&N filter pods, heck I dunno.
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- FaultedGeologist
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I have no bench carb holder, though getti g one sounds like it would be worth it. Last time I used a 5gal bucket to support the carbs so I only needed to control the front back axis and used my wife's patient hands to keep that level while I added gas and took a pic of the 4x tube levels for reference.
The only way I felt like doing this on bike was acceptable was to replace the float bowl screws with allen hex head to make it not strip out from the horrible angles.
Just to confirm, if floats allow too much fuel in, when the carbs are upside down you would push the tang down to force the float needle to seat higher, right? It seemed like things were getting better, then I got a funky reading and got pissed; returned carbs to bike and it ran better, so I stopped.
Clint
1980 KZ750 LTD H4
FSMaunual: kz.bike-night.com/media/GPz750-full.pdf
Stock except for:
New chain and sprocket (530?).
Dynatek Ignition
Manual tensioner on the way.
Buy JIS screwdrivers.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- kaw-a-holic
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matthewwp56 wrote: kewl already getting ideas. Thanks guys.
Now is there a full detailed rebuild instructions for simply cleaning and setting everything to default online or here somewhere?
Thanks, revpops 720-270-0154
hishousemedia.com detroit/denver
I uploaded a pdf for the suggested VM cleaning method by Patton in the file base. Here is a link to it
www.kzrider.com/filebase/search/viewdown...g-method-for-vm-28-s
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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- Markovich
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1990 KZ1000P, 72k miles, 10 years in storage, new, bars, tires, chain and sprockets, seat, carbs cleaned, police equipement removed.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- FaultedGeologist
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- The truly educated never graduate...
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Attachment image_2014-09-05.jpg not found
Clint
1980 KZ750 LTD H4
FSMaunual: kz.bike-night.com/media/GPz750-full.pdf
Stock except for:
New chain and sprocket (530?).
Dynatek Ignition
Manual tensioner on the way.
Buy JIS screwdrivers.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.