Adjusting float level with carbs on bike

Hi all, so how do you bend the float tang with the carbs still in place on the bike? What tools do you use? I am looking for alternative ways that have worked for you. Thanks, Keith

Hello, just checking this post to see if anyone can give me some feedback. I am thinking a small screwdriver, a mirror and just hold the tang and pull down on the float assembly to give me the lowering of the level I need. Sound about right to you guys?

I have a small screwdriver just works perfectly for this, I normally just put it between the tang and the float body and lightly twist, just kind of flex the tang "bend" is a very strong term for this delicate procedure.

In my experience its not worth the hassle trying to do this on the bike, I pull them off, flip them upside down and tilt them to and fro till all the gas comes out, clamp them to the rack and get to business. I would wager the most that you could save doing them on the bike would be about 10 minutes.

I guess if only one float needs adjusted, but even then I would clear tube test all 4

Unfortunately not everyone has a carb stand. I personally use a magnet to pull the pin and take the float out to adjust the tang. I like adjusting the float while they are on the bike because that is the angle in which the carbs will always sit. But I like doing things the hard way.

kaw-a-holic wrote: Unfortunately not everyone has a carb stand. I personally use a magnet to pull the pin and take the float out to adjust the tang. I like adjusting the float while they are on the bike because that is the angle in which the carbs will always sit. But I like doing things the hard way.

I used to just rachet strap mine to a piece of scrap wood that was clamped in a bench vise, not exactly a high end setup, but it worked just fine.

I never understood the obsession with having them level on both axis's, or any axis for that matter. I mean really, how freaking often is that gonna happen when they are in service??? I understand getting them close, but I seldom use more than my eyeballs.

kewl already getting ideas. Thanks guys.

Now is there a full detailed rebuild instructions for simply cleaning and setting everything to default online or here somewhere?

Thanks, revpops 720-270-0154
hishousemedia.com detroit/denver

General outline of the procedure I follow.



-acquire new gaskets, a variety of NEW jets, and new needle valves(and any parts determined to be damaged during initial inspection)

- Google "homemade soda blaster", make one, and blast the rack while assembled(stuff paper towels in throats)

- disassemble entire rack including individual carbs, and blow all passages with compressed air

-soak Carb bodies in a one gallon Carb cleaner solution(available at most auto parts stores) then rinse.

-find member "PATTON"s guide for cleaning the pilot circuit, and follow it

- reassmble the rack, and use a paper clip as a feeler gauge to "bench sync" the slides.

-set the float heights using the clear tube method( I like to let it sit for 15 minutes or so just to be sure they aren't seeping slowly).

- take a rough guess at jetting, and assemble( save your new bowl gasket till your happy with the running)

- get it running good, then using a rack of vac guages sync the carbs.



If you had all the stuff, this could be done in a day, except maybe the tuning and sync part.



Don't be shy to tell me if I have something backwards or wrong here, this is just what works for me.

In my novice opinion, Tomolo has a great guide that should be linked to in future carb clean threads. I have taken off my carbs so many times with supposed experts there that it is easy now. Getting it right before putting them back on is the key.

I have no bench carb holder, though getti g one sounds like it would be worth it. Last time I used a 5gal bucket to support the carbs so I only needed to control the front back axis and used my wife's patient hands to keep that level while I added gas and took a pic of the 4x tube levels for reference.

The only way I felt like doing this on bike was acceptable was to replace the float bowl screws with allen hex head to make it not strip out from the horrible angles.

Just to confirm, if floats allow too much fuel in, when the carbs are upside down you would push the tang down to force the float needle to seat higher, right? It seemed like things were getting better, then I got a funky reading and got pissed; returned carbs to bike and it ran better, so I stopped.

Here's what I found useful for removing carb bowls with the carbs still on the bike. Ed

matthewwp56 wrote: kewl already getting ideas. Thanks guys.

Now is there a full detailed rebuild instructions for simply cleaning and setting everything to default online or here somewhere?

Thanks, revpops 720-270-0154
hishousemedia.com detroit/denver

I uploaded a pdf for the suggested VM cleaning method by Patton in the file base. Here is a link to it
www.kzrider.com/filebase/search/viewdown...g-method-for-vm-28-s

Thank you all for the suggestions! My situation is that #2 carb seems just a tad high so I am inclined to try to lower the level just a bit. I am hoping to remove the bowl and just lower the float level about 2mm or so. Not an exact science when installed but I think by using a small screwdriver to hold the tang in place and pull down on the floats I think I can get it adjusted. i will re-perform the clear tube method one more time before I change anything. I switched out float bowl fasteners to socket head screws so it should be easier to remove them with an allen socket (I hope). That cylinder exhaust pipe is still cooler than the rest so I suspect it is running richer than the rest but as a novice I can't be sure. Your help has been the difference between a cool hobby and a frustrating effort. I'm sure I will be asking more questions from you all as I go forward. Thanks again to all of you KZR writers.Keith

That procedure for the Mikuni carbs is great, but the process will be slightly different for the Keihin CV34s. It appears the Mikuni has an air screw, while the Keihin has a fuel screw, to adjust the air fuel mix. I searched as far as the google could see for a CV34 cutaway that could be labeled, and only found them for the CV40. Anyone else have one that we could Pattonize?