Bike stumbles and bucks

It's an 80 ltd1000, just picked it up after having a shop try for 11 months to solve an issue. The out a dynojet stage 3 kit in, bumped jet sizes up and down and no full cure. Compression checked, valve lash ignition checked. Problem is, bike has pods and going to put a header on when I get closer to lined out. Here's what it's doing, starts, idles and cruises fine but as soon as you start being aggressive it spits and sputters, the harder you push, the worse it is.
I'm open to suggestions guys. I need help!

I have seen this issue on other bike forums, the pods let your carbs breath to much and throws off your fuel air mix. If you synced your carbs before using the pods and know what the vacuum was for each carb I would suggest restricting the flow from the pods so that the carbs have the same vaccum as when you had the airbox on it.

Regards,

Will

Check the seats inside the carburetors. I worked on an 81' KZ1000CSR and it did the same thing. Anything above 5000 rpm and the bike would run like hell. I found lots of debris clogging up the passages in the seats on 3 of the 4 carbs. Enough fuel would get into the bowl for low RPMs and cruising, but as soon as you started getting rough, the supply of fuel couldn't keep up with what was being consumed.

I took the Pods off mine and bought a K&N filter probably flows as well as the pods did just doesnt look the same. Best way is to tune each carb for highest RPM after a good warm up. If you have a synchronizer that works as well or vacuum gauges. You can also do a plug check which is what many do. My two cents is if your going to upgrade your exhaust do it before you put all this time into tuning the carbs since its going to change things. My pods worked great on the Rototiller and lawn mower just not on my bike go figure. There is a thread somewhere on tuning the carbs with a lot of info such as how to check if the pump is working a such. It helped me and still does but I cant find it now, Im a computer dummy. I wish you all the luck though. John.

I suppose buying a stock airbox would be out of the question? Online bike dismantlers have lots of parts at pretty cheap prices...... figure out how much money and life you have spent trying to re engineer this thing and go from there.

Constant velocity carbs need a constant smooth supply of air ( as their name suggests ) and fitting separate or open filters causes the slides to pulse and create uneven running which will get worse with increased turbulance as the revs rise.
Ideally they need a smooth balanced supply of still air as provided by an air box however fitting dual pods to each pair of carbs can go some way to limiting the rough running as the opposing pulse from the neighbouring carb will dampen out the other somewhat if indeed that is the cause of the problem.
Worth a try before you go any further.